AstoSoup Posted October 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 So I ordered the correct install ring for the head unit, as well as some red l.e.d rocker switches for the amp remote, parking brake ground, and l.e.d ambient lighting I have yet to install. Will be one, red l.e.d on each mid range, plus 4 red l.e.d bars under each seat. Also got pretty much the entire rear hatch sound deadened, just have a few more small pieces to put on the body and a few pieces for the under side of the bottom plastic. Ports fire DIRECTLY at the bottom plastic, so I figure may as well make it as strong of a surface as possible! Pics coming in a few minutes, gotta catch up on everything I have neglected today in the name of SPL, lol :-0 Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dionysus Posted October 13, 2014 Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 So I ordered the correct install ring for the head unit, as well as some red l.e.d rocker switches for the amp remote, parking brake ground, and l.e.d ambient lighting I have yet to install. Will be one, red l.e.d on each mid range, plus 4 red l.e.d bars under each seat. Also got pretty much the entire rear hatch sound deadened, just have a few more small pieces to put on the body and a few pieces for the under side of the bottom plastic. Ports fire DIRECTLY at the bottom plastic, so I figure may as well make it as strong of a surface as possible! Pics coming in a few minutes, gotta catch up on everything I have neglected today in the name of SPL, lol :-0 Sweet dude, lookin forward to seein how the LEDs come out Build log link, (Slow Build) http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183469-dionysuss-02-eddie-bauer-explorer-slow-budget-build-sundown-4-chan-guts-pg-4/ Team AB son! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 Started with the outer layer of metal, of course. Were some brackets to go around and only a few small cutouts to reach through and put the material through. So I cut the material down to smaller pieces, while keeping the sheets as large as possible. Outer metal seems to go on forever on either side and was pretty difficult to cover the entire surface. The outer layer took most of my time today but I think it came out pretty good for my first time! Little bit of rust starting around that seam.... Going to grind that down tomorrow and paint and tar over the seam, up to the dampening material. As you can see, I utilized ALL of my excess trimmings Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 Temp was already at like 50 degrees and the sun wasn't even all the way down, so I decided to heat the metal and the material with a blow dryer before applying to the inner layer. After trying this out, I found that the material forms and sticks MUCH better when heated up to around 85 degrees. So before I went any further with the inner layer, I re-heated the outer layer with the dryer and rolled it all out again with the roller supplied. Needless to say, it's like knocking on 1/8" steel now lol Here's what I got done of the inner layer. Pretty much all done, besides over the locking mechanism and at the top around the window. As you can see, I went over all of the other factory cutouts and over the wiring, sucking it tight to the metal to eliminate rattles. Still want to go up the rest of the way on the frame around the window and do something over the locking mechanism, either more deadener or a temp. barrier. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 So to anyone viewing or tuned in, let me pick your brain for a moment. There are a lot of moving parts on that lock assembly and it protrudes out quite a bit.... Should I cover this with deadener, even though it's covered behind it? Or should I just go over it with some sort of plastic temp/moisture barrier? There are small, oval holes that are factory cut in the bottom of the hatch, so I don't think the area inside is water tight. Just not quite sure what to do here.... Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 Here's the smaller plastic trim piece that goes on the window part of the hatch. Mostly glass and mechanisms behind it, so I decided just to deaden the back side of the plastic. Going to do the same with the larger, bottom plastic as the ports load directly off it and it's very thin. Putting the material on this piece, doubled the weight of it and has much more of a "thud" sound when tapped on now. Also before I put the plastics back on, I will be coating them with a beige color based with black and grey speckled, textured coating. All of the light beige plastic on the vehicle, including the front pillars once I put the tweeter pods on, will be coated in this. Will try and find an example of what the finish looks like, it matches the beige interior almost perfect! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 Well, after a few long days of work, the hatch is finally all deadened! Three layers all together, one on the outer metal, one on the inner metal and one layer on the back side of the interior plastic. Also fastened the window part of the hatch shut, VERY tightly against the seal. All in all, I would say it came out pretty good for my first time working with the material. Covered every area that is covered with panel and can't see any material sticking out the edges.... Sound quality is MUCH better now, tighter and broader frequency response and has eradicated ALL rattles in the rear, other than the wiper bouncing lol. Next is the side panels and doors, won't be doing the roof yet, I despise removing headliners... Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 Ended up throwing some 10 mil. plastic over the locking mechanisms to keep out any moisture and air. Didn't want that sticky deadener binding up any of the moving parts on the latch system, but had to put something over it. Not that it will do much for sound deadening, but I think the other layers should take care of it! A lot of glare on it, but you can see where there were small, oval shaped cut outs in the bottom of the hatch. I used a small piece of deadener and a heat gun to seal these off, as I suspect moisture and dirt can easily come through these. Also, I suspect this is the source of the rust that formed inside my hatch. I ground down the rust inside the hatch as best as I could using a Dremel, then painted it with some rust killing enamel from Lowes. Forgot to take a pic of that and also forgot to get a pic of the bottom plastic with the deadener on it. No big deal.... Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 Here's the hatch, all back together with the plastic back on. It is quite a bit of bending, tweaking and lining up clips when putting this thing back on. Therefore, I decided against covering it with the beige texture, prior to re installing it. I figured this would ruin the finish, so I will just put my masking skills to good use and coat it while on the vehicle. Beige cleaned up nicely though, easy when you have it off and can really scrub it! For anyone doing an Explorer, I can't stress enough that you get ALL clips into their slots, before pressing it firmly onto the hatch. If even ONE of these aren't lined up perfect, the panel will not go back on and when it happened to me, the clip easily bent over and I assume would break if I applied any more pressure. Luckily, it bent back and was still strong enough to go back in and hold the panel firmly. I very luckily did not break a thing and hear no rattles from anywhere on the hatch or around it now, so everything must be good Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 Last issue I had, was that broken window latch.... The latch was almost fixed to the glass and the screws pulled through the mounting holes. This all started with a small crack, then the bass just kept making it worse until finally, it would barely latch and was blowing air around it on the lows. Not too keen on purchasing another entire window section for $85, just to have it happen again, so I removed most of the latch and fastened it shut with bolts and washers lol It may look a little odd, having two bolts on either side of the hatch.... It does however, stay closed VERY tightly because I can turn the bolt until it's sealed. I never used the window part anyway and there is no air blowing out the back now, which was effectively killing my SPL. Back is pretty dirty and I of course have the famous Explorer vertical crack on the back plastic. Probably 90% of 02-05 Explorer's I see, have this same crack in like the same place. It was like this when I got it, the bass didn't do this so I figure it must be a design flaw.... Will be washing her tomorrow (supposed to be 80 degrees!) , and removing the old sticker residue on the back window. Also have a chrome wiper blade for it! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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