Patrick Saxon Posted October 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 i got a really good deal on the subs and i want to stick with them for a while should i just get another amp and power one to each sub that way i get the full potential from the subs/more watts and run each one on a 4ohm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souldrop Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 If you already have the amp and have the room just build the box bigger. Bigger box = more efficient, but lower mechanical power handling. On the other hand I personally wouldn't buy another amp. Maybe trade. You could look for a kicker zx1500 or fosgate t1500bdcp and get similar power at 2 ohms. There may be a couple other amps than do ~1500W at 2 ohms. 1997 Lexus ES300 HU - Pioneer MVH 7350 Processor - Helix DSP Front Stage - JBL P660C Mid/high amp - Alpine PDX-F4 Subs - 1 IA Death Penalty 12 Sub Amp - Cactus Sounds PF300.1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krakin Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 If you already have the amp and have the room just build the box bigger. Bigger box = more efficient, but lower mechanical power handling. On the other hand I personally wouldn't buy another amp. Maybe trade. You could look for a kicker zx1500 or fosgate t1500bdcp and get similar power at 2 ohms. There may be a couple other amps than do ~1500W at 2 ohms. There are many negatives of creating a box too large for a driver... For one your group delay will be awful. Krakin's Home Dipole Project http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370 Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist? I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself but what has drawn your attention in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears, thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souldrop Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Not sure how concerned the OP is about group delay, but a fair point that I didn't know. 1997 Lexus ES300 HU - Pioneer MVH 7350 Processor - Helix DSP Front Stage - JBL P660C Mid/high amp - Alpine PDX-F4 Subs - 1 IA Death Penalty 12 Sub Amp - Cactus Sounds PF300.1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evermaxx Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Just buy another 1500, call it a day. Team Subsonic Lows Get your garbage EMF products of my amp bitch Man....it makes a nice work bench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSanders17 Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Just buy another 1500, call it a day. This! But you better get alot more electrical to run two of them. I would search for a Fosgate 1500bdcp if it were me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 I've been running at .5 for 6 months now daily. no issues (except a cracked box) but i also have a decent electrical to back it up. never drop below 13.4v amp doesn't get hot and sub don't get stinky. the "risk" for me is def worth it. sense i can't run at 1ohm and my sub wouldn't move with my amp @ 2ohm. but like was said before... if you have to ask you shouldn't do it. however your amp can.and will handle .5 id add 2 great batts (dual runs of 0g Can only help) and get a good volt meter in your dash. adding that i would run your amp at .5 just use your head. the ho alt will help allot...but right now i don't have one and I'm doing fine with a 120amp. 0 voltage drop while driving btw. jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Run at .5 its fine. But I'm running more electrical than you and I won't wire below 1ohm unless its warrantied . I work way too hard for my money to piss it away cause I didn't buy a big enough amplifier. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikitaaa Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 .5 for a daily is not recommended unless you are a seasoned vet who knows the risks and has proper electrical, usually not .5 daily though. 1 ohm is the lowest I'd go in my builds, I have done .5 for testing. Not that I think my amps can't handle it but simply because the stress and extra heat generated by the amp are not worth 1-2 tenth more on the meter. Plus your electrical is not up to par, run at 2 ohms till you get decent electrical and find some dual 1ohm or dual 4ohm subs. Upgrade your alt to biggest you can get: DC, Mechman, Singer. All good brands, DC charges a bit more but mine have never let me down. Singer and Mechman are very solid choices as well As for batteries, a big Group 31 will do fine with 2000watts and a big alt to charge it, XS, Crescendo, Kinketik etc Always overdo your electrical, people overlook that you will gain more than 1-2 tenths going from 1 ohm to half.... try 1 to 1.5db.....Also OP, I'm going to go against the general concensus and say do it . What I forsee happening is your voltage will drop below battery resting voltage and you won't be able to play or demo for very long. Worst case the amp's protection circuit (impedance or thermal) won't kick in when needed and you'll pop the amp. But the chances of that happening are slim if you're smart. If something is hot: turn it down. If something smells: turn it down. Etc. IMO if you're running an amp at 1 ohm you are not getting your money's worth. Yeah 90% of people won't agree with me but I'm just going off of personal experience. 2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX (4) Sundown Audio X-8's (2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's (3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries (1) Mechman 240 3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunkTEAM NWSPLBest termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 classBest termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class155db outlaw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacomaguy1 Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 what he said....I will never run a big mono amp at or above 1 ohm so much wasted power Team Flex Issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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