bcbrassard Posted November 19, 2014 Report Posted November 19, 2014 Whipping out some nice work man. You gonna love those pods on the A-Pillar with the mids in the doors! Keep up the good work.
milburyl Posted November 20, 2014 Author Report Posted November 20, 2014 I'm trying. But it's not bad for my first time. Can't wait till I can hear em in the car. No hurry though. Can't take the car out until May anyway. Then it's going to be painted, then start running wires.
milburyl Posted November 20, 2014 Author Report Posted November 20, 2014 Can anybody help me positively ID which series of speakers they ACTUALLY are and which tweeters go with which set? Im thinking the black tweeters with no mounting hardware go with the maroon colored mids because the stickers look the same on the backs of them, and the grey tweeters with the surface and angled mounts go with the orange colored 3 way components and a couple pics of the xovers as well. The 6.75" midbass? The 3.25" mids. The tweeters and mounting hardware. Picture of assembled xover. Picture of EQ settings in xover. Picture of the labeled speaker connections. Now the other set. No xovers given with these ones. The 6.75" mids. The tweeters.(no mounting hardware)
milburyl Posted November 20, 2014 Author Report Posted November 20, 2014 Got the second wrapped. Used felt on this one though. The felt was a lot easier to stretch and held the resin better. Was able to get the folds a lot tighter and smoother. The angles aren't perfectly symmetrical, but won't be noticed when they are installed though. They are pretty close.
milburyl Posted November 20, 2014 Author Report Posted November 20, 2014 Was considering soldering my ground block right to the floor of my car. Would this be the ideal way to connect the ground block? I'm thinking that it would give me OPTIMAL connection and alleviate any doubts about the ground. Was also thinking I should solder my ground wire under the hood to the firewall. There is a nice little threaded hole in the firewall already that has nothing in it, can use that spot for ground because its physically welded to the firewall and it's only about 10-15 inches away from the battery. I'm trying to think of ways to ground without having to drill holes in the floor or under the hood. The only hole I should have to drill is for the 0 gauge power wire to run back to the rear batteries. Also gonna buy 2 more of the Kinetik HC600 batteries(just because I already own 2 of them and they are pretty compact). That would give me a decent power source and then I could isolate them from the regular battery under the hood and not have to worry about not being able to start my car because of a dead battery.
bcbrassard Posted November 20, 2014 Report Posted November 20, 2014 Was considering soldering my ground block right to the floor of my car. Would this be the ideal way to connect the ground block? I'm thinking that it would give me OPTIMAL connection and alleviate any doubts about the ground. Was also thinking I should solder my ground wire under the hood to the firewall. There is a nice little threaded hole in the firewall already that has nothing in it, can use that spot for ground because its physically welded to the firewall and it's only about 10-15 inches away from the battery. I'm trying to think of ways to ground without having to drill holes in the floor or under the hood. The only hole I should have to drill is for the 0 gauge power wire to run back to the rear batteries. Also gonna buy 2 more of the Kinetik HC600 batteries(just because I already own 2 of them and they are pretty compact). That would give me a decent power source and then I could isolate them from the regular battery under the hood and not have to worry about not being able to start my car because of a dead battery. I know you want good grounds but welding your ground wire might be a bit extreme. Sanded to bare metal, bolted on and then some protection over grounded area to prevent corrosion should be enough IMO. Get a AGM battery that fits under your hood and eliminate the isolater all together.
milburyl Posted November 21, 2014 Author Report Posted November 21, 2014 Not actually gonna weld them. The threaded hole on the firewall has a nut welded to it from the backside from the factory. Figured I could use that for ground up front and in the back, there is a cross member between the wheel wells that I wanna sand down to bare metal and use self tapping bolts to attach my ground block(which is a solid block with 2 0 guage outputs, it makes its connection by touching the frame) and then solder that block right to the cross member.
milburyl Posted November 21, 2014 Author Report Posted November 21, 2014 After making these speaker pods, I feel like I could make a custom section on my dash to put the LCD screen and EQ/line driver in. Just need to pick a spot that's not gonna obstruct my view.
milburyl Posted November 22, 2014 Author Report Posted November 22, 2014 Both are done and primed now. will leave them at that until spring when they go red like the car.
milburyl Posted November 22, 2014 Author Report Posted November 22, 2014 Battery question.... what is the difference between an RV deep cycle battery and an RV starting battery? Was looking at these 2 batteries at Walmart. Good warranty and a brick and mortar store to make any returns(if necessary). First 2 pics are the starting battery and second 2 pics are the deep cycle battery. Prices are really good on them too. And the deep cycle battery..... I like that both batteries have double top post terminals. Will make installing power wire a breeze.
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