sebringR/T Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 Ok so recently I picked up a 2010 Ford Taurus, completely loaded. Sync, leather, sunroof, yada yada yada. Planning on using a JL CleanSweep to get my bump back into the car in order to keep the stock headunit, for the time being. Eventually I would like to replace the HU with an aftermarket double din, but just currently don't have the money for it. So here's the thing, I need some help. I understand how the CleanSweep works and what it does, but how exactly does it hook up? The car does have the full Sony sound system, but debating on going ahead and hooking my PBR300.4 up the the highs since I have it laying around. I'll also be putting my 2 12" DC Lvl4s in the car off a AQ1200D. Yes, I know the Lvl4s are laughing at the 1200, but you make due with what you have, right? So...can anyone help me out? Team Droppin' Hz Tuxedo Black Metallic 2010 Ford Taurus Limited Build Log "Financial Mistake" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 i personally would bypass the Sony crap. rip the speakers out run your amp and replace. as http://www.jlaudio.com/cl441dsp-car-audio-oem-integration-98110 this should help. there's a vid explaining. and its $300 bucks! you can get a nice double din for a extra $100 instead of spending $300 now and $4/500 later i would just wait. also i know the lv4s can take much more but you don't have to Max them out. my sub is only getting half rated (till Monday) and i Can play super low because of it. even tho I'm excited to double my power, I'm not pumped about turning my subsonic up. jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebringR/T Posted December 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 I've already got the CleanSweep. I picked one up used for $100 with everything besides the calibration CD. Team Droppin' Hz Tuxedo Black Metallic 2010 Ford Taurus Limited Build Log "Financial Mistake" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afrakes Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 I've already got the CleanSweep. I picked one up used for $100 with everything besides the calibration CD. That's a hell of a deal. Just saying Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandpride684 Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 Ok so recently I picked up a 2010 Ford Taurus, completely loaded. Sync, leather, sunroof, yada yada yada. Planning on using a JL CleanSweep to get my bump back into the car in order to keep the stock headunit, for the time being. Eventually I would like to replace the HU with an aftermarket double din, but just currently don't have the money for it. So here's the thing, I need some help. I understand how the CleanSweep works and what it does, but how exactly does it hook up? The car does have the full Sony sound system, but debating on going ahead and hooking my PBR300.4 up the the highs since I have it laying around. I'll also be putting my 2 12" DC Lvl4s in the car off a AQ1200D. Yes, I know the Lvl4s are laughing at the 1200, but you make due with what you have, right? So...can anyone help me out? Check to see if there is a factory amp behind the left trim panel in the trunk, if so bypass the factory amp (since you plan on using the 300.4) and use the wires on the input side of the factory amp for the inputs going into the cleansweep...you are going to need the wire diagram so see which wire is which...then on the output side of the factory amp...locate the speaker wires and run them to the 300.4...how many total speakers are there? Build Log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186921-blk9te-07-yukon-slo-mo-build/page-3?hl=%2Bblk9te#entry2881410 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebringR/T Posted December 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 Believe the car comes with 12 total but I don't know how they are all wired through the amp. I also don't know if that is counting the stock sub or not. Team Droppin' Hz Tuxedo Black Metallic 2010 Ford Taurus Limited Build Log "Financial Mistake" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandpride684 Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 Locate the factory amp first then we'll go from there...if its not on the left side check the right side in the trunk behind the trim panels....after you locate the factory amp, next we will verify the connector plugs going in/out of the factory amp...there are a lot of diagrams out there just want to see which one you will need....take a pic of the connector plugs on the factory amp and post them.....see if these wires match the ones you have...these are the outputs for the factory amp going into your factory speakers FRONT CENTER - green, grey/yellow (1,9)LF DOOR mid - white, white/black (2,10)tweeter- green/orange, grey/orange (3,11)LR DOOR - white/green, brown/yellow (4,12)REAR CENTER - green/brown, purple/brown (5,13)RF DOOR mid - white/purple, white/orange (6,14)tweeter- purple/pink, yellow/pink (7,15)RR DOOR - brown/blue, brown/white (8,16)when looking at the plug from the wire side, thereare two rows of wires with eight wires in each rowand the #1 terminal is on the top left. top row is 1-8bottom row is 9-16. The numbers in parenthesis are theposistion on the plug.Located on the top plug is the sub wiresLEFT SUB - grey, green/purpleRIGHT SUB - purple, yellowspeaker locations and sizes1 LF door 6x8 mid2 LF door sail panel 1" tweeter3 RF door 6x8 mid4 RF door sail panel 1" tweeter5&6 LR door 6x8 coax7&8 RR door 6x8 coax9 center of dash 3.5" full range10 center of rear tray 3.5" full range11&12 rear tray 6x9 subs Build Log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186921-blk9te-07-yukon-slo-mo-build/page-3?hl=%2Bblk9te#entry2881410 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebringR/T Posted December 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 Great info! Thanks! I'll have to check it out tomorrow. Car is currently in the shop getting some work done. Team Droppin' Hz Tuxedo Black Metallic 2010 Ford Taurus Limited Build Log "Financial Mistake" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandpride684 Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 Here is a link i found that will greatly help you out...just a note...I hope you know how to read schematics because this is no simple task....the easiest way to bypass all this is to replace the head unit....good luck... http://www.fordtaurus.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=17832 Build Log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186921-blk9te-07-yukon-slo-mo-build/page-3?hl=%2Bblk9te#entry2881410 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebringR/T Posted December 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 Here is a link i found that will greatly help you out...just a note...I hope you know how to read schematics because this is no simple task....the easiest way to bypass all this is to replace the head unit....good luck... http://www.fordtaurus.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=17832 You are a savior. I'm can read schematics, but it may take me 2 or 3 times reading it to get it. I really appreciate all your help. Greatly appreciated. Team Droppin' Hz Tuxedo Black Metallic 2010 Ford Taurus Limited Build Log "Financial Mistake" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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