islandpride684

SKAR AUDIO FTW 1000.1 CLAIMED

it just means you can't run the front and rear @1ohm just 2 and 4 respectively....

Nice...gonna cop me one of these when they become avail....

the CP will outperform the BD all day....you can use the pass thru to run all three...and you have to set each amp separately...the CP does the same at 1 and 2 ohms while the BD doesn't...its all up to you if you want to run all three...personally I would either sell the 2 BDs and get another CP or sell that CP and get 1 more BD...just my .02 cents....

If you set everything right with the DD1 then I wouldn't worry about the clip light on the remote....

just make sure you have the dip switches in the right config on your vcm based on the type of batteries you are running...ie 12v, 14v/16v....and don't go over the their limits also....ie xs recommends not to exceed 14.9v on their 12v batts and make your adjustments with the system off and there is no load on the alt....

lol...i be telling mine to turn that shit down, she bumps more than I do...

Box looks great bro....tuned in...

Rockford Fosgate punch power DVCs...

Here is a good read and it covers why companies do it... http://www.nationalautosound.com/pointers-on-choosing-a-car-bass-amplifier-power-ratings

Listen to this guy, you will blow your amps and sub.No way man, for real?I really hope you're trolling. lol...cmon now, I was being sarcastic...I should have put it in quotations...

Listen to this guy, you will blow your amps and sub. No way man, for real?

Na man you'll be fine, wire that bitch down to 1 ohm and turn the gain all the way up, not recommended for competitions, but for daily, turn that shit to the max volume...

Minimum working impedance strapped/linked is 2 ohms, any lower than that will damage your driver...straight from the manual