pacmannbass Posted December 16, 2014 Author Report Posted December 16, 2014 Do not for any reason connect the positive to the chassis. 1. Alt positive to batt + 2.alt case to batt - 3.batt - to chassis 4. Engine to chassis 5. Alt case to chassis* not required but doesn't hurt. And fuse all positive runs. That's what I figured, was just thrown off because he said frame and chassis. I know my positive is a power not ground, just wanted to clarify. But your steps pretty much sum up what meade did in his video. Good looking out. I'll deff run a fuse in mine too. I already have 2. 1 under the hood, and 1 before my kinetik in back
alaskanzx5 Posted December 16, 2014 Report Posted December 16, 2014 A big 3 for car audio 3 wires 1. Alt pos to batt 2. Batt beg to frame/chassis 3. Alt case/mounting bolt to batt neg Big 4 ^ do as started above add alt to frame/chassis ground Big 5 Add engine ground Big 6 Batt to engine ground Big 7 Alt to engine ground And the list could go on. Beyond the big 4 it really won't help you for car audio. The only next best thing you could do is negative runs front to back. Some fuse the pos wire on the alt some don't. I haven't yet but I will be. It is just simply safer that way. The point of the big 3 is to remove as much resistance in the electrical system. The most important parts of it imo are the grounds. Specially the alt ground. The reason for grounding the alt casing is that it is ground while you're car is running, that is assuming that your alt can handle the demand of your electrical equipment. If it does not keep up then you fall into the battery. At which point it becomes ground. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
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