hjosephfiles Posted January 8, 2015 Report Posted January 8, 2015 Hello this is my first post to the forum and I have a sundown sa 12 that I've been running in a prefab box. If like to build my own box but all of the calculations confuse the ever living @#%$ out of me. I have an suv so I wouldn't mine putting a big box in the back. Could someone please help me with design?
Triticum Agricolam Posted January 8, 2015 Report Posted January 8, 2015 Any reason you want to do a T-Line vs a regular ported box? "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds:
Jeff4661 Posted January 10, 2015 Report Posted January 10, 2015 Any reason you want to do a T-Line vs a regular ported box?X2First real box? I'd say go ported.. use it as a learning opportunity... Then build later build a tline Current build 05 Yukon SLT http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/195350-jeffs-05-yukong-wall-build/
KenSchoen Posted January 13, 2015 Report Posted January 13, 2015 I agree with these guys. Not only is a T-line a more advance design with alot more calculations to get it right but in a car it's very impractical. A T-line can improve bass response in home audio when smaller speakers are used. But in a car with a decent 12 a ported will serve you just fine. P.S. the 1/4 wavelength measurement which is how long your port needs to be for 35 hz is over 8 feet long...plus for a 12 the port area has to be pretty good sized. Not worth it man.
philrab Posted January 13, 2015 Report Posted January 13, 2015 Let me chime in to try and keep this going. I've already built several ported boxes, and was throwing around the idea of dropping my SA12 into either a T-line or a 4th order box (really just depends on space in my vehicle, both will be tight, T-line may not fit, 4th bandpass I think I can work out.) Benefits of a T-line as I understand them from reading up is very wide bandwidth, very good output relative to power. I already gather they have to be very precisely built otherwise all is for nothing, but having built several ported boxes that came out great, I'm up for the challenge. So, to renew the original question in case the OP hasn't been scared off, anyone have any resources or links they'd care to post to point him in the right direction? If I haven't seen any updates by the time I get home, I'll dig through my links and post up what I've collected. All that said, I would recommend the OP built a simpler enclosure first unless you are dead nuts positive you can accurately build this. There isn't a lot of margin for error before the box just doesn't work. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes.
KenSchoen Posted January 13, 2015 Report Posted January 13, 2015 I know how to build a t-line. Unless he wants to go tappered. In that case I have no idea. The only thing I know about tappered is that the smallest part of the port can be no smaller that the area of the driver in question. That's also how you figure out what size your port has to be. Then you use your tuning frequency to find how long it has to be.
CortezDTV Posted January 13, 2015 Report Posted January 13, 2015 I know how to build a t-line. Unless he wants to go tappered. In that case I have no idea. The only thing I know about tappered is that the smallest part of the port can be no smaller that the area of the driver in question. That's also how you figure out what size your port has to be. Then you use your tuning frequency to find how long it has to be. Um no You just described a tline A tapered line he's much smaller than cone area then expands to larger than cone area SCSB Santa Cruz Speaker Box Build logs: Daily Driver Lemon Marquis 2 american bass 750.1s 350.4 on 14 focal 6.5s sq 945 on 4 hertz tweeters Mystery subs http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 The Mustang 'dubbed' Shirley the project from bullet holes to badass http://www.stevemead...cond-skin-time/
Triticum Agricolam Posted January 13, 2015 Report Posted January 13, 2015 ... Benefits of a T-line as I understand them from reading up is very wide bandwidth, very good output relative to power. I already gather they have to be very precisely built otherwise all is for nothing, but having built several ported boxes that came out great, I'm up for the challenge. ... T-lines and ported boxes pretty much do the same thing, they delay and amplify the back wave coming off the cone to compliment the wave coming off the front. How they do it is very different, but the result is the same. To say that T-lines have wider bandwidth, and higher efficiency than ported boxes is an over-generalization. Its true that T-lines can be designed to have wide bandwidth or high efficiency, but so can ported boxes. Neither style is superior to the other, and really they are more alike than than they are different. If you were to design a ported box that took up as much space as a lot of the T-Lines you see people build, it would have VERY similar efficiency. You can also design T-Lines and ported boxes to have pretty much identical frequency response too. ...The only thing I know about tappered is that the smallest part of the port can be no smaller that the area of the driver in question. That's also how you figure out what size your port has to be.... No. Your minimum cross sectional area of a T-Line (its not a port) can be much smaller than the area of the driver. As far as tapered T-Lines go they can have an increasing area from the cone to the mouth or a decreasing area. Different layouts shape the sound in different ways, it just depends on what your design goals are. Sometimes I feel like people treat T-lines like some kind of dark magic that going to do the impossible with their sub. They are just like any other box style be it ported, sealed, bandpass, horn, etc. Depending on the situation, at times they are the best solution for the task at hand, other times they aren't. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds:
CortezDTV Posted January 13, 2015 Report Posted January 13, 2015 Port should be same size or as close to as Possiable the cone area..... Not smaller than the driver A tad smaller for better sq Where did you get you info..... SCSB Santa Cruz Speaker Box Build logs: Daily Driver Lemon Marquis 2 american bass 750.1s 350.4 on 14 focal 6.5s sq 945 on 4 hertz tweeters Mystery subs http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 The Mustang 'dubbed' Shirley the project from bullet holes to badass http://www.stevemead...cond-skin-time/
philrab Posted January 13, 2015 Report Posted January 13, 2015 ... Benefits of a T-line as I understand them from reading up is very wide bandwidth, very good output relative to power. I already gather they have to be very precisely built otherwise all is for nothing, but having built several ported boxes that came out great, I'm up for the challenge. ... T-lines and ported boxes pretty much do the same thing, they delay and amplify the back wave coming off the cone to compliment the wave coming off the front. How they do it is very different, but the result is the same. To say that T-lines have wider bandwidth, and higher efficiency than ported boxes is an over-generalization. Its true that T-lines can be designed to have wide bandwidth or high efficiency, but so can ported boxes. Neither style is superior to the other, and really they are more alike than than they are different. If you were to design a ported box that took up as much space as a lot of the T-Lines you see people build, it would have VERY similar efficiency. You can also design T-Lines and ported boxes to have pretty much identical frequency response too. Sometimes I feel like people treat T-lines like some kind of dark magic that going to do the impossible with their sub. They are just like any other box style be it ported, sealed, bandpass, horn, etc. Depending on the situation, at times they are the best solution for the task at hand, other times they aren't. Preach on sir. In your opinion, in what case is a T-line more appropriate than a ported enclosure since you're saying that a regular ported box can be made with similar efficiency and bandwidth. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes.
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