Aero enclosure design, input appreciated! :)

[betweenmatt]

Hey guys, so I've asked tons of questions so far before I build my first box, and I finally found the time to put together a sketch!

First off, I'm running 4 Alpine swe-10s4's here: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-2afsDK79tEr/p_500SWE10S4/Alpine-SWE-10S4.html

and a Hifonics bxi 1206d 1200 watts at 1 ohm.

Car: 1990 Buick Century sedan.

The box will be 3/4 MFD, and the internal bracing I didn't know what to use so I guessed and used 2x4's in the sketch xD

The box will go into the trunk the long way, with the subs facing the sides, and the port(per what someone said was a good idea on these forums) will be out the top of the box, through the carpet thing under the rear windshield so that it ports into the cabin. My seats dont fold down, so that feels like the best way to move the most air through the car.

The overall dimensions are 14h x 26w x 32d with a 8" diameter port at 20" length. I'm not sure the difference between one and two ports, so I'm planning on going one, with 10" external. With these dimensions the net volume is 5.12 cubes (not counting bracing, or sub displacement, but I'm probably going inverted anyway) at 31.98 hz. The overall tuning may be slightly different depending on how far I actually end up putting the port in.

Here's a very rough sketch:

I didn't want the bracing to be directly behind the subs, but if that doesn't matter I can spread them a little further.

Would it be wise to double up the sub walls, or all the walls with this setup?

Oh yeah the trunk dimensions at the smallest points are 18h x 34w x 40d give or take...

Any input and/or criticism is appreciated

[Jeff4661]

Ok as for double walls personally for your setup I feel it would be a waste of your resources... I would suggest running a brace between the two baffles as well as coating the inside in fiberglass resin..

That will stuffin up Ur box..

As for bracing I personally would stay away from the 2x4 idea.. instead look for some 1" -1.5" hardwood dowell

Comments?

[Jeff4661]

2 ports would just gain you some port area...which you may or may not need

[MrSkippyJ]

he will need more than fiberglass resin to add any kind of strength. I would do a decent sized dowel in the middle, the other sides should be ok...no need for (4) 2x4s.

[Jeff4661]

he will need more than fiberglass resin to add any kind of strength. I would do a decent sized dowel in the middle, the other sides should be ok...no need for (4) 2x4s.

X2

That's what I was getting a with the 1"-1.5" hardwood dowells ... The resin the whole inside on top of bracing.. yeilding a solid enclosure

[MrSkippyJ]

resin doesn't add strength. He will need some fiberglass cloth or mat as well.

[Triticum Agricolam]

resin doesn't add strength. He will need some fiberglass cloth or mat as well.

This. Resin by itself adds no strength. Fiberglassing a flat panel doesn't really add any strength either. Fiberglass gets it strength when it's curved. The best thing for strengthening the flat panels is really just to brace them well. I'd get rid of the 2x4s and use dowels as others have suggested. I'd put several between the top and bottom panels. I'd put one bracing the two baffles together too.

[MrSkippyJ]

Some pieces of rope work out nice to add some curves to the fiberglass.

You think he would need dowels between the baffles? Being it will only be about 12" tall I was thinking it might be solid enough.

[Triticum Agricolam]

Some pieces of rope work out nice to add some curves to the fiberglass.

You think he would need dowels between the baffles? Being it will only be about 12" tall I was thinking it might be solid enough.

Yeah I've heard of the rope trick, never tried it myself but sounds like it should work well.

I'd put a brace between the baffles since 12" is pretty much my limit for unbraced spans and that area is weakened by the sub cutouts.

[MrSkippyJ]

fair enough. Plus it's not like it will hurt, even if not needed.