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Ok so if I put twice the power to the subs with a clean signal they more than likely won't blow ? They were fine for over a year on the alpine mrp1000 amp never had an issue can I get something that will detect clipping or is an oscilloscope cheaper than the tool that detects clipping ?

Unfortunately I cannot give you an absolute answer as to whether your subs will handle that amount of power or not. Sub power handling capacity isn't as simple as it may appear. It varies based on the specs of the box, the kind of music you listen to, etc. Let me explain.

A subs power handling capacity really is a measurement of how well it can dissipate heat. If you have a sub that's rated for 500 watts RMS it should be able to handle a continuous 500 watt sine wave, at least in theory. The problem is music is not a continuous sine wave, not the vast majority of music anyway. Music has changing frequencies and changing volumes. Since music changes so much a 500 watt sub should be able to briefly handle much, much more than 500 watts in short bursts. The important thing is that the overall power put into the sub averages out to 500 or less watts.
That's not the whole situation either, the box plays a big part too. With a sealed box there is a big impedance peak around its resonant frequency. Since amplifiers are constant voltage devices as impedance goes up watts go down. So if you were to play a constant volume sine wave sweep your amp is pushing out the same voltage regardless of the frequency but you sub is going to receive a lot less watts around its resonant frequency since the impedance is higher. The opposite is true with ported boxes. They have an impedance dip around their tuning frequency. When you play a tone right at the tuning frequency of the box the sub is going to receive the most power since impedance is lowest. This is extra hard on the sub since at tuning cone movement is at a minimum so there is very little air moving over the coil to cool it.
If your ported box is tuned fairly low (30 Hz for example) and you listen to a lot of rock music that doesn't have much content below 40 Hz, you are going to be able to throw a ton of power at that sub. However if you listen to music with lots of low, continuous notes right at your tuning frequency you won't be able to put as much power into your sub as you could with different music.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

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Ok so if I put twice the power to the subs with a clean signal they more than likely won't blow ? They were fine for over a year on the alpine mrp1000 amp never had an issue can I get something that will detect clipping or is an oscilloscope cheaper than the tool that detects clipping ?

Unfortunately I cannot give you an absolute answer as to whether your subs will handle that amount of power or not. Sub power handling capacity isn't as simple as it may appear. It varies based on the specs of the box, the kind of music you listen to, etc. Let me explain.

A subs power handling capacity really is a measurement of how well it can dissipate heat. If you have a sub that's rated for 500 watts RMS it should be able to handle a continuous 500 watt sine wave, at least in theory. The problem is music is not a continuous sine wave, not the vast majority of music anyway. Music has changing frequencies and changing volumes. Since music changes so much a 500 watt sub should be able to briefly handle much, much more than 500 watts in short bursts. The important thing is that the overall power put into the sub averages out to 500 or less watts.

That's not the whole situation either, the box plays a big part too. With a sealed box there is a big impedance peak around its resonant frequency. Since amplifiers are constant voltage devices as impedance goes up watts go down. So if you were to play a constant volume sine wave sweep your amp is pushing out the same voltage regardless of the frequency but you sub is going to receive a lot less watts around its resonant frequency since the impedance is higher. The opposite is true with ported boxes. They have an impedance dip around their tuning frequency. When you play a tone right at the tuning frequency of the box the sub is going to receive the most power since impedance is lowest. This is extra hard on the sub since at tuning cone movement is at a minimum so there is very little air moving over the coil to cool it.

If your ported box is tuned fairly low (30 Hz for example) and you listen to a lot of rock music that doesn't have much content below 40 Hz, you are going to be able to throw a ton of power at that sub. However if you listen to music with lots of low, continuous notes right at your tuning frequency you won't be able to put as much power into your sub as you could with different music.

Thanks that was a very good explaination. I think I'm going to invest in an ociliscope in the near future though so I can set my gains correctly for now I'll just keep my gains very low and hopefully I'm not clipping

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It's also sub dependant, HDS subs by many accounts are rated closer to actual power handling than the higher end HDC series, older HDC3 subs would take twice rated power no issues.

Excellent point. Different subs are rated more or less conservatively than others. Unfortunately there is no way to know other than asking people with experience with those particular subs.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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