rockFord_Expedition Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 To Rockford expidition- so if I also put in a 100x4 amp for the door speakers I would have 1900 watts total. 1900/.7 is 2714. Half it is 1350. 1350/13.8 is 97.82. Plus 60 to run other stuff. So a 160 or 180amp Alt should be enough? I'm getting the xs big 3 kit and a yellow top this weekend The 160A mechman is rated at max RPM's cold most likely, so warm and at idle it will put out much less. Hairpin is the way to go if you can. You won't regret it. Where I get the .7 is by estimating the efficiency of a D class sub amp at 1 ohm. Your 4 channel will most likely be class A/B which are less efficient. Like I said, you will have this and want more later so go with the biggest alt that you can afford to begin with. Having a surplus of charging capability is a good thing. XS Big 3 kit is good. Tony Candela who goes by Snafu on her runs CE Auto Electric Supply and gives discounts to SMD members, or at least he used to. Definitely worth considering as well. The biggest mistake I see when people do the big 3 is they ground the engine and not the alt case to the frame/strut tower. Sometimes that works but it often defeats the purpose, kind of varies by each application. That ground run is intended to give the most efficient return path possible to your alt, so make sure it goes to one of your alt mounting bolts, the engine block is a last resort. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastwood Posted April 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 To Rockford expidition- so if I also put in a 100x4 amp for the door speakers I would have 1900 watts total. 1900/.7 is 2714. Half it is 1350. 1350/13.8 is 97.82. Plus 60 to run other stuff. So a 160 or 180amp Alt should be enough? I'm getting the xs big 3 kit and a yellow top this weekend The 160A mechman is rated at max RPM's cold most likely, so warm and at idle it will put out much less. Hairpin is the way to go if you can. You won't regret it. Where I get the .7 is by estimating the efficiency of a D class sub amp at 1 ohm. Your 4 channel will most likely be class A/B which are less efficient. Like I said, you will have this and want more later so go with the biggest alt that you can afford to begin with. Having a surplus of charging capability is a good thing. XS Big 3 kit is good. Tony Candela who goes by Snafu on her runs CE Auto Electric Supply and gives discounts to SMD members, or at least he used to. Definitely worth considering as well. The biggest mistake I see when people do the big 3 is they ground the engine and not the alt case to the frame/strut tower. Sometimes that works but it often defeats the purpose, kind of varies by each application. That ground run is intended to give the most efficient return path possible to your alt, so make sure it goes to one of your alt mounting bolts, the engine block is a last resort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastwood Posted April 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 So alt to batt +, batt - to strut, then alt case to strut also? I'll look at the hairpin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 So alt to batt +, batt - to strut, then alt case to strut also? I'll look at the hairpin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 So alt to batt +, batt - to strut, then alt case to strut also? I'll look at the hairpin. Sounds good Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastwood Posted April 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 Big 3 is done. Hope this works. <iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/eastwood400/embed/Mobile%20Uploads/story"></iframe> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandpride684 Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 Big 3 is done. Hope this works. <iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/eastwood400/embed/Mobile%20Uploads/story"></iframe> fixed it Build Log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186921-blk9te-07-yukon-slo-mo-build/page-3?hl=%2Bblk9te#entry2881410 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastwood Posted April 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 Thank you sir. Think I did the html instead of the embed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osixfrontier Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 Another good alternative to a yellow top is the super start agm from oriely or the diehard platinum agm from sears or napa. The super start is basically a rebadged deka. That plus the big 3 and I think you'll be okay even though it's a "1500" watt system after box rise and what not you'll be lucky to have a 1000 watts actually going to your speakers. 99 4runner walled 2 18 fi btl ufo psi recones 15 cubes 33hz port bottom behind the C pillar orion hcca 8000.1d 8 Polk audio mm 691 6x9 2 2000x4 hifonics 320 amp singer alt 3 g31 1 baby seat 1 booster seat and daily driven! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osixfrontier Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 Another good alternative to a yellow top is the super start agm from oriely or the diehard platinum agm from sears or napa. The super start is basically a rebadged deka. That plus the big 3 and I think you'll be okay even though it's a "1500" watt system after box rise and what not you'll be lucky to have a 1000 watts actually going to your speakers. 99 4runner walled 2 18 fi btl ufo psi recones 15 cubes 33hz port bottom behind the C pillar orion hcca 8000.1d 8 Polk audio mm 691 6x9 2 2000x4 hifonics 320 amp singer alt 3 g31 1 baby seat 1 booster seat and daily driven! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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