*UPDATED, FINISHED* Need help with my first ported box. Stuck between two design's

[MrAcd]

What I am saying is, what ever the width of the port. You need that at a minimum between the entrance of the port and another wall.

Ohh, i was talking about outside of the box, but yeah i got your part covered. I just had somebody else tell me that if i were to make the dual ported box it would have to be a split chamber, anybody have any comment on that?

[Joe X]

You should stick with proper volume.

Proper volume as in box volume or port area? because, both boxes are above minimum space requirements, only one box has more volume than the other but also it has less port area.

Also port area, both have the correct amount of port area, only one box has the port area recommended to me by SSA and the other box's port area is "on the low end" - Araron at SSA .

SSA gives about 18 square inches of port area to their single driver "optimum" suggested box.

[MrAcd]

i went back and figured out i overlooked 1 dimension! Plugged in the new calculation and plugged in a new port and i think i have it figured out!

My height is actually .75 taller, that giving me 3.83ft after sub displacement. This allowed for a taller port, still going off what SSA told me recommended port area for my subs, i know need 55.535 square inches of port area. The taller port got an increase of .75

Now my port is 4.75 x 11.5, this equals 54.625 square inches of port area, this is close enough.

This also gave my net cubic ft more space too, which i was happy with the old net volume but more is better. Velocity is still below 20m/s.

It is a single port, so my port to wall ratio is lower, due to only having one wall. It will look like this one http://i.imgur.com/oqTYf3G.png but instead of 4 inches it will be 4.75 and it will be a little bit longer. This should be fine right?

[MrAcd]

So after the following days, i learned so much more. I decided to go with the single slot port a port being 11.5 x 3.75, i have 2.93cubic ft of NET volume to work with, making my port 29 inches long, now I have around 14.75 square inches a cube of port area, all is looking good and im about to start building. Now that i have that out of the way. I have some questions. For speaker terminals, what kind of bolts do i need to use? I know copper is the best but have heard the next below that is brass, anybody tried this?

Also, would anybody recommend me putting 45's in any of the corner. And should i use dowels or all thread for bracing?

And port end correction, how is that calculated, do i need to calculate that?

If i were to round off the end on the port board, do i need to add an extra inch or so onto the length to accommodate for the round off? Or should i even round it off ?

[sirhutson]

So after the following days, i learned so much more. I decided to go with the single slot port a port being 11.5 x 3.75, i have 2.93cubic ft of NET volume to work with, making my port 29 inches long, now I have around 14.75 square inches a cube of port area, all is looking good and im about to start building. Now that i have that out of the way. I have some questions. For speaker terminals, what kind of bolts do i need to use? I know copper is the best but have heard the next below that is brass, anybody tried this?

Also, would anybody recommend me putting 45's in any of the corner. And should i use dowels or all thread for bracing?

And port end correction, how is that calculated, do i need to calculate that?

If i were to round off the end on the port board, do i need to add an extra inch or so onto the length to accommodate for the round off? Or should i even round it off ?

Good. That dual port designed seemed kinda fishy.

[MrAcd]

haha, you should of said something! Thats why i posted on here for some feedback, it was only an idea. I had no clue if it was going to work or not... It sounded like a plan in my head. The main thing im questioning is port end correction and if i need to add .5-1 inch to the port length to make up for rounding the port board.

[Triticum Agricolam]

Aluminum bolts are the next best thing to copper. Brass is much worse, but still better than steel.

If your port has a bend in it you should put a 45 in there, anywhere else is probably a waste.

I prefer dowels to threaded rod for bracing. When you use dowels you should drill a hole all the way through the panel and then smear some glue on the dowel and push/tap it in. You can then cut the dowel flush with the outside of the box after the glue dries.

[Joe X]

So after the following days, i learned so much more. I decided to go with the single slot port a port being 11.5 x 3.75, i have 2.93cubic ft of NET volume to work with, making my port 29 inches long, now I have around 14.75 square inches a cube of port area, all is looking good and im about to start building. Now that i have that out of the way. I have some questions. For speaker terminals, what kind of bolts do i need to use? I know copper is the best but have heard the next below that is brass, anybody tried this?

Also, would anybody recommend me putting 45's in any of the corner. And should i use dowels or all thread for bracing?

And port end correction, how is that calculated, do i need to calculate that?

If i were to round off the end on the port board, do i need to add an extra inch or so onto the length to accommodate for the round off? Or should i even round it off

1) You can direct connect and dismiss any terminals, if you do bolts I would care more about the quality of the job you do, these are 300W subs.

2) Use a top down brace for the baffle, for the power you are using use whatever bracing you want.

3) The end correction is calculated adding 1/2 of the lesser dimension of your slot port, if using Torres calc this is done for you.

4) roundoff makes so little difference that you can dismiss the effects. The end correction you should account for even if it makes a small difference.

[MrAcd]

Aluminum bolts are the next best thing to copper. Brass is much worse, but still better than steel.

If your port has a bend in it you should put a 45 in there, anywhere else is probably a waste.

I prefer dowels to threaded rod for bracing. When you use dowels you should drill a hole all the way through the panel and then smear some glue on the dowel and push/tap it in. You can then cut the dowel flush with the outside of the box after the glue dries.

Everything you said, was exactly what I was thinking, I also thought of aluminum bolts but, like copper bolts, they are hard to find. That is why I assumed brass was the next down. If there is anything above copper and aluminum, by all means tell me, but brass from what I have read is the next thing.

I can't run it straight through, because if somethigncrasy happens and I need my back seat, I need to be able to take out the box and put it in the bed of the truck.

My port doesn't does ever turn, so your saying I don't 45's in any of ther other corners.

Any specific reason you chose dowles over all thread? I agree with the dowels, but I'm wondering. I have noticed that dowels are easier to work with. Instead of dowels could I do a 1x1 and sand all the edges of it?

[MrAcd]

So after the following days, i learned so much more. I decided to go with the single slot port a port being 11.5 x 3.75, i have 2.93cubic ft of NET volume to work with, making my port 29 inches long, now I have around 14.75 square inches a cube of port area, all is looking good and im about to start building. Now that i have that out of the way. I have some questions. For speaker terminals, what kind of bolts do i need to use? I know copper is the best but have heard the next below that is brass, anybody tried this?

Also, would anybody recommend me putting 45's in any of the corner. And should i use dowels or all thread for bracing?

And port end correction, how is that calculated, do i need to calculate that?

If i were to round off the end on the port board, do i need to add an extra inch or so onto the length to accommodate for the round off? Or should i even round it off

1) You can direct connect and dismiss any terminals, if you do bolts I would care more about the quality of the job you do, these are 300W subs.

2) Use a top down brace for the baffle, for the power you are using use whatever bracing you want.

3) The end correction is calculated adding 1/2 of the lesser dimension of your slot port, if using Torres calc this is done for you.

4) roundoff makes so little difference that you can dismiss the effects. The end correction you should account for even if it makes a small difference.

That answered a lot of my question, I answered why I could run wire through the box, though I like to, in the post above. What exactly do you use to get port length. I use Torres but have looked at bass box pro and WinISD. Each say differently, Torres says about 29 inch of length, WinISD and bass box say around 30-31. I know it isn't that much of a difference but just wondered which one everybody else uses, or even which i. The most accurate. Btwn they are actually 400w subs but it isn't that much of a difference from 300w. They are definitely taking more though.