The Continuous Life Posted August 4, 2015 Author Report Posted August 4, 2015 Recommended fuse sizes should be in the manual or listed on their site if you don't have the manual I have all the manuals, & they each say 100A, so that is what I have been running. Then I looked on the .com and it said, for the T500 & T400, respectively, 80 and 60 respectively.
reedal Posted August 4, 2015 Report Posted August 4, 2015 Odd. 80 should do fine, but 100 won't hurt it (just me because I fuse for my wire not my amps, too much trust I guess). Unless your wire can't handle 100A of current, and you already have them but have to buy 80A fuses, just stick with the 100A. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32
The Continuous Life Posted August 5, 2015 Author Report Posted August 5, 2015 u sure that t400.2 is at 4 ohms? it shouldn't be getting hot like that if at 4ohm How did set the gains on the amps, you know where the headunit distorts? Class ab vs class d.. It happens But it does sound like the t400 might have an issue. Check for a speaker short somewhere or check if the speakers are working properly. Lower the gain on it and see it that helps Grab a DMM and check to make sure it's really 4ohms going to the amp like the other guys mentioned check everything and make sure the amp is tuned properly correct sizes and real speaker wire to the doors? no hard pinches in those door runs? just some thoughts that havent been mentioned everyone ive ever met at a show who runs RF T series to their doors has said it gets very hot Well, here is the skinny. Quick voltage check showed what I already knew, from the battery to the amps, through everything, I hardly lose 1/10th volt - 14.64v while at idle. Ohms to amp on right side is 4.0, on left side is the same, 4.0, but sometimes flickers to 4.1. I decided to all four drivers in the components. Both 6.5s are 3.7ohms, right tweeter is 3.5ohm, BUT left (Driver's Side) tweeter showed nothing! Then it started bouncing all around from 50 to 200+ ohms. I took a AA battery and quickly snapped each of the three speakers, and they all gave feedback, then the bad side tweeter gave me nothing at all. Zip. I reconnected the front 6.5 to the x-over, and now it reads 5ohms out to the amp on the left side. I never played a single note of anything. I do not even want to think of what is wrong here. I routed everything real proper. In good channels, over sound deadening, but under closed cell foam, and properly through the door loom. But the thought of a blown tweet makes my head twirl. I so do not want to tear stuff apart.
The Continuous Life Posted August 5, 2015 Author Report Posted August 5, 2015 Also, I noticed something about BOTH of the crossovers. Here is what a normal one should look like, what mine looked like when I installed them. Note how you can clearly see the red, wound wire on the lower left. http://www.ebay.com/itm/One-CROSSOVERS-INFINITY-KAPPA-PERFECT-5-1-6-1-SPEAKER-/331615315289?hash=item4d35d02559 My lower left ones look melted with a "milkyness" to them. IDK, like they have gotten hot themselves? Remember, this is one both sides.
knowledge Posted August 5, 2015 Report Posted August 5, 2015 pics? REFF'SMy linkEBAYhttp://feedback.ebay...ck&myworld=trueI love car audio so much because I will never be done. I can never win, and I will never get it finished or perfect. It always has me coming back for more, I can never get my fill of it, but I get what I need.
The Continuous Life Posted August 5, 2015 Author Report Posted August 5, 2015 Also, I noticed something about BOTH of the crossovers. Here is what a normal one should look like, what mine looked like when I installed them. Note how you can clearly see the red, wound wire on the lower left. http://www.ebay.com/itm/One-CROSSOVERS-INFINITY-KAPPA-PERFECT-5-1-6-1-SPEAKER-/331615315289?hash=item4d35d02559 My lower left ones look melted with a "milkyness" to them. IDK, like they have gotten hot themselves? Remember, this is one both sides. pics? I'm sorry. Before Now
Stephen13 Posted August 5, 2015 Report Posted August 5, 2015 Looks like the tweeter inductor has cooked itself. 2011 Chevy Silverado LT 5.3L 4x4 Ext.-cab "Enjoy yourself. It's later than you think."
The Continuous Life Posted August 5, 2015 Author Report Posted August 5, 2015 Looks like the tweeter inductor has cooked itself. Ideas why? I am not overpowering them. And it has happened on both sides, but the right side tweet continues to play while the left gives me nothing at the shown wire back behind the seat. (I have not torn my door apart yet.)
Stephen13 Posted August 5, 2015 Report Posted August 5, 2015 Too much current going thru it would cause it to cook like that. Either there's too much current running thru it or the amount of current the inductor can actually handle is much lower than what it's rated for. I'd contact Infinity and tell them about it. 2011 Chevy Silverado LT 5.3L 4x4 Ext.-cab "Enjoy yourself. It's later than you think."
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