Joe X Posted August 27, 2015 Report Posted August 27, 2015 If you can't get port clearance you can do the port partially external, a few inches out can help you get better clearance on the inner end, as an alternative 3 6" ports can do the job (about 6 extra square inches of port area), fittings for 6" pipe are easily available in case you need to turn.
Inetba Posted August 27, 2015 Author Report Posted August 27, 2015 Oh man, a bent 6" aeroport. That would be so sick looking.
Inetba Posted August 27, 2015 Author Report Posted August 27, 2015 Alright so I'm getting a pretty good idea of how I want this to look. Final question for all the marbles.How far should the actual woofer itself be from any walls? And the port? Thank you guys for all your help. You're amazing.
Joe X Posted August 27, 2015 Report Posted August 27, 2015 That sub is a beast so I guess most important is pretty stiff box, a dual layer baffle and bracing are a must IMO, On to your question I'd say that port and subs don't usually benefit from anything too near them and is also important that the internal end of the port is away from the sub as well. Also If you have a lot of funds available you may want to tale a look at the adjustable length round port from here: http://www.psychoport.com/#!prices/c1l4t
Inetba Posted August 27, 2015 Author Report Posted August 27, 2015 Those psychoports are totally amazing looking! Absolutely sold! And that means I'll probably have to mount the sub so the body of the sub is outside the box which limits how tall I can make the box down to 16" (short trunk)Will I need to use a lot of bracing if I use Baltic birch? I've never done bracing before so it kinda scares me a little bit. I don't really know how.
Triticum Agricolam Posted August 27, 2015 Report Posted August 27, 2015 Those psychoports are totally amazing looking! Absolutely sold! And that means I'll probably have to mount the sub so the body of the sub is outside the box which limits how tall I can make the box down to 16" (short trunk) Will I need to use a lot of bracing if I use Baltic birch? I've never done bracing before so it kinda scares me a little bit. I don't really know how. Yes you will need to brace even with Baltic birch. I try to keep unbraced spans less that 12". Learn to love the bracing, do not fear it :-) There are lots of different ways to effectively do bracing. When you start coming up with a design I'll be happy to help you with bracing suggestions. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds:
Joe X Posted August 27, 2015 Report Posted August 27, 2015 You place braces where you expect flex to develop, the center of a large panel can be such a spot, when you expect a lot stress window braces may be needed, you may want to post your box design here before building to get some opinions.
Inetba Posted August 28, 2015 Author Report Posted August 28, 2015 Here's my two design ideas. The first one on the left would basically be a small wall with a 10" port. It's 28" tall, 33" wide, and 33" deep. The woofer is firing up and the port is facing the passenger compartment. Walls are 1" thick MDF. I know it's a little overboard, but it's a rough draft. Once again power would be 3,400 watts. I have the woofer roughly 3" away from any walls and the port is also about 3" away from any walls.
Inetba Posted August 28, 2015 Author Report Posted August 28, 2015 The 2nd one has the woofer OUTSIDE the box so height is limited to 16" tall. It's also 33 wide by 33 deep. It has two six inch ports.
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