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Posted

I am just starting to get into the Car Audio thing. I'm looking at getting the Sundown Audio x-15. (just one) It has a 1250 watt rms.

The thing is i dont know how many watts is to much for my stock alt. and battery. Since i would get a 2000 rms mono block and a 600 watt 4 channel thats 2600 watts at the most.

I just don't know what is to much for a stock alt. and if it is to much what i need to upgrade. like can i just get a upgraded alt. and hold out on a battery or what? any help would be great

(I drive a 2000 Tahoe Limited 5.7 L)

Posted

Since you're just getting into car audio let me tell you the golden rule

*When you go big (over 2K) you need good electrical upgrades (Big 3, good battery, quality size wire) because It takes power to make power.

If I'm correct you might have a 105a or 140a stock which would work but not efficiently and durability will be at stake. If you don't feed proper power to your amps it could possibly result into damage equipment.

You have one of the most popular vehicle for car audio and they make direct fit high output alternators for a fair price. If your willing to get an alt might as well get a good agm battery and like I said you will have to get quality size wire too.

It cost doe to play big. It's just no way around it in this car audio world.

Posted

I'm running a zv4 15 on 1800 watts. I have a stock 100 amp alt, big 3, redtop up front and kenetik hc-2000 battery in the rear. My voltage gauge bounces all over the place. About to upgrade alt. Anyways If you would like to go the route of not getting high output alternator, you could go with an sundown sa-15 or even sa-18 if you want it loud. Run it on 1000 watts plus your 600watt for 1600. Those sa's POUND (go look at videos) I would still reccomend a second battery to help with voltage and you should be okay if you have the 140amp alt. Hope you find something that suits you man. Take your time

Posted

If I where you and u haven't bought any equipment I would buy a 1200-1300 watt true power amp to push that sub and get a 400watt amp to push your mids and highs. Get the biggest agm battery that will fit underhood and a agm for the back I would also do the big 4 in 1/0 and 1 run of 1/0 to the back with a volt meter to see where your voltage is at your sub amp. If it constantly dips really low then save up for a good h.o. alternator (singer, dc power, mechman, and you should be good. Also make sure you tune your amps with a dd-1 or oscilloscope if you don't have one go to a shop that does. Or see if anyone on here near you has one. Gl and welcome to smd and the joys of car audio.

On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said:

Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science...

Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/

2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/

2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded

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