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Hard wiring the head unit


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Ok, so my last problem was a loose power wire causing the amp to distort. The fuse bolts were loose on the fuse holder. Fixed that. Now, I am running into the same problem with the RFX 8140..I blew the Jimmy's radio fuse #19. Driving home last night the radio went out as well as the speedometer on my dash board.

This same cd player kept blowing the radio fuse years ago with my Chevy S-10. The way I fixed it yrs ago was to up the radio fuse to 20 amps. Not sure if the radio is drawing more current from the power or the switched power. The radio is connected as it should be using an after market connector harness. Just odd that its happening again.

I'd rather hard wire the radio to the battery.

Any thoughts?

-Frank

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The fuse is usually on the constant power wire and there is no issue with wiring it straight to the battery so long as it's still fused properly.

I believe the manufacturers actually intend for you to wire the constant to its own source of power (the battery) and not tied in with the switched power but most dont do it that way for whatever reason.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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This is what you need and to find switched power all you need is a multimeter.

http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HHH-ATM-Add-A-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2

This should help you out.

Personally I would run it in the fuse box but the testing steps are still the same.

http://www.techguys.ca/howto/power.html

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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You should have some open fuse slots on the panel. Some may be constant hot and some may be ignition sources. To find out wich is wich take a tester light and see wich ones are your ignition sources by turning the key on and off as you check each open space. The light should turn on and off with the ignition switch. Then just attach a male flat terminal to your new wire you ran and plug it in. You should b able to do the same for the constant power. That way you dont have to run strait to the battery. A constant power source will be hot wether the key is on or not. Just be sure to fuse them both.

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Cool. I will look into the add a fuse thing BAA.

Now the next thing I did after reading the post was go to the Jimmy and replaced the 15 mini fuse....and it quickly blew. I removed the radio to find 1 processor RCAs on the cd player did not have electrical tape on it. Must have fallen off. It must have touched the metal brace in the dash causing the fuse to blow. Disconnecting the radio, and installing a 3rd mini fuse, then reconnecting the radio outside of the dash- the fuse did not blow.

I still rather have the radio on it's own fused power source.

Man, what a careless mistake, an oversite when installing the radio.

-Frank

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you could leave the harness and just take the constant hot and run a fused line to the battery instead of the harness.It's probably better doing this than cutting the harness.I have had to do it on several older cars do to the increased power draw by the newer head units.I prefer to do this over increasing fuse sizes because you just never know what older wiring can handle or has been through.

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