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Speaker impendence q


plush4318

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So in essence, you're saying 4 sets of 6.5s with 2 crossover sets and 2 sets of 3s would be the same as 4 drivers per channel?

Had to end that multi-quote.

Uhm, it depends on what the 'crossover sets' are doing.

You should protect the 3" on the bottom end and there is no need to run the 6.5" in the vocal range that the 3" are covering, otherwise what is the purpose of the 3"? So yes, I would find or build a passive crossover or use another amp to separate them and deal with the impedance of each size of speaker independently.

I guess I should mention what I'm panning on using.

I came up with 4 sets of digital design aw6.5s, 1 on rear door, 2 on front door, and 1 in kick panel, with 2 cc3 passive crossover sets and 2 sets of aw3, 1 in dash and one in b pillar, which hopefully comes to a 4 ohm load per channel at 600 rms on the dd ss6 amp, and 2 sets of the at28 on one ss2b, one set in the kick panels, and one in the a pillar. Run on a 3 way active network from the pioneer 80prs. How's that sound?

04trailblazer

XS d3400

XS xp3000

Pioneer 80prs

2 pairs of DD AW6.5 mids

2 pairs of DD AT28 tweeters

DD SS4A

DD M1D

DD 3518sc in custom kerf port box

2 runs Tspec 0/1 wire

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How's that sound?

Honestly, like a hot mess.

I agree with above to get all that in front if possible.

I suggest you go straight to the source and e-mail DD with that list and see what they say about power handling capabilities, crossover frequency points (they change with driver impedance usually), and overall setup options to get the most out of your stuff.

Static drops are my bag.

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How's that sound?

Honestly, like a hot mess.

I agree with above to get all that in front if possible.

I suggest you go straight to the source and e-mail DD with that list and see what they say about power handling capabilities, crossover frequency points (they change with driver impedance usually), and overall setup options to get the most out of your stuff.

I thought about canceling the rear door speaker out, but my legs are long and where my seat sits, the speaker is right beside me angled up. Figured it wouldn't be an issue, but that's why I'm here and asking. I'm trying to figure out my speaker set up before I start purchasing.

Ideally , I'm told for a sq competition build you want to be able to close your eyes and not be able to tell where any speaker is. So that's what I'm aiming for here, while hitting about a 145db

04trailblazer

XS d3400

XS xp3000

Pioneer 80prs

2 pairs of DD AW6.5 mids

2 pairs of DD AT28 tweeters

DD SS4A

DD M1D

DD 3518sc in custom kerf port box

2 runs Tspec 0/1 wire

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Share on other sites

I competed SQ in the early 90s and won 90% of the shows I entered across WI and MN. I became an installer after that and I've tried to incorporate the philosophies I've learned (and am still learning with each install and other expert I talk to) into every system I've built since then.

Having a speaker fire at your leg or ass will not help your soundstage at all. Think of a killer home listening setup--not surround sound, but strictly music. Two main speaker cabinets equidistant and angled toward one single listening chair, maybe with a sub crossed over really, really low. The easiest way to emulate that in a car is to keep your (same sized) speakers grouped together and as close to the same distance from your ear as possible--usually as far in front of you as possible. Some think rear speakers are necessary to 'open up' the soundstage but when you hear things like that realize the successful setups are using a small fraction of the power on the rears as they are on the fronts and those rears are well behind the listening position, not next to you or directly behind you. I'd never put a speaker back there without a way to attenuate it's output independently of the front.

SQ requires just as much testing and tuning as SPL. Guys spend years building new boxes, adjusting ports, changing headliner materials, using sound deadening, removing sound deadening, etc. to get any small gain on the meter. SQ is the same way. Rarely will you throw an install together and be 'done' first shot, no matter how well you've planned it out. Speaker placement and angle, reflective vs. absorbent materials, seat placement, crossover and level settings, mid bass enclosure tuning, and a hundred other things can have major changes for better or worse.

I still recommend you contact DD about the crossovers and how they work with what you have planned regarding speaker load and power handling. if you want further SQ help there are a few current competitors still around you could pm or invite to this thread for much more detailed info. White Lightning is the most prominent on here, but there are others.

Static drops are my bag.

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