BigHOUSTON Posted January 9, 2016 Report Posted January 9, 2016 Anyone on here a Ford Technician or extremely knowledgeable with newer Fords. I was told my vehicle might have a smart charging system, which is PCM regulated. Blah, blah ,blah. Essentially this would cause the alternator to be regulated depending on motor temp, battery charge rate, ambient temp, which would cause the alt to not constantly charge (almost like a clutch on a AC compressor) Although upon initial research that if the vehicle does have a smart charging system if would have a silver calcium battery from the factory. My car just had the standard Motorcraft Shittery. Any input would be greatly appreciated!! Source of personal research/ http://www.valeoservice.com/data/master/webfile/2945759434DDE6E8714173.pdf
OrionStang Posted January 9, 2016 Report Posted January 9, 2016 They are pcm controlled. Mine very rarely ever charges over 14, and is usually 13.6-13.7. What vehicle do you have? SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread
BigHOUSTON Posted January 9, 2016 Author Report Posted January 9, 2016 They are pcm controlled. Mine very rarely ever charges over 14, and is usually 13.6-13.7. What vehicle do you have? 2014 fusion
OrionStang Posted January 10, 2016 Report Posted January 10, 2016 Might have to deal with it. Nobody was making a voltage module for my car (2010 Mustang) for years, so I just gave up and based my amp choices on 12v ratings. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread
BigHOUSTON Posted January 10, 2016 Author Report Posted January 10, 2016 Might have to deal with it. Nobody was making a voltage module for my car (2010 Mustang) for years, so I just gave up and based my amp choices on 12v ratings. i never planned on doing anything outside of the 12v realm with my build. The reason im asking because on my build log someone was saying i might encounter problems with doing the big 3. Guy said he read that doing the big 3 would conflict with the smart charging system
MADVIBES Posted January 10, 2016 Report Posted January 10, 2016 This is what I was told long ago with my pcm controlled mazda, you need to disconnect your computer to your alt and run a seperate controller, upside is more amperage and voltage, downside... battery light on the dash will be forever on. DB DRAG PSYCHLONE PRO 156.3 30 SECOND AVERAGE FO MAX AT 26HZ LEGAL DASH DRIVER DOOR OPEN 158.0@30 HZ MY BEST SO FAR, HOPEFULLY A 160 COME FEBUARY. 156.9@26hz 158.0@30hz
OrionStang Posted January 10, 2016 Report Posted January 10, 2016 Big 3 won't hurt anything, just add to whats there, don't remove any factory wires. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread
BigHOUSTON Posted January 10, 2016 Author Report Posted January 10, 2016 This is what I was told long ago with my pcm controlled mazda, you need to disconnect your computer to your alt and run a seperate controller, upside is more amperage and voltage, downside... battery light on the dash will be forever on. Dont know if i want to do that, my car is a lease. Have to draw a line on the things im willing to do to it. Big 3 won't hurt anything, just add to whats there, don't remove any factory wires. Yeah of course. Vehicle is too new and electronic to be removing wires. Thanks btw
MADVIBES Posted January 10, 2016 Report Posted January 10, 2016 My mazda is old now and used strictly for shows, so I am going to remove my AC compressor and put a gm alt there with a controller. Hopefully! DB DRAG PSYCHLONE PRO 156.3 30 SECOND AVERAGE FO MAX AT 26HZ LEGAL DASH DRIVER DOOR OPEN 158.0@30 HZ MY BEST SO FAR, HOPEFULLY A 160 COME FEBUARY. 156.9@26hz 158.0@30hz
BigHOUSTON Posted January 10, 2016 Author Report Posted January 10, 2016 My mazda is old now and used strictly for shows, so I am going to remove my AC compressor and put a gm alt there with a controller. Hopefully! Who needs AC when there is bass. I had a mazda once, absolutely hated it. Motor blew and replaced. Replacement motor was jacked, and had to get it replaced. Flywheel and started never lined up again and never wanted to drive above 55.
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