Ford information is requested

[Mike Gann]

My mazda is old now and used strictly for shows, so I am going to remove my AC compressor and put a gm alt there with a controller. Hopefully!

Who needs AC when there is bass. I had a mazda once, absolutely hated it. Motor blew and replaced. Replacement motor was jacked, and had to get it replaced. Flywheel and started never lined up again and never wanted to drive above 55.

I hope you Lemon Law'd your car, they can't sell you a pos. Remember Mazda is Ford, and I don't trust them. I drive a 2012 Ford Fiesta and this post makes a lot of sense to the power draw issues I've been having. I'm running a 1000w Zapco amp, never got into the big 3 yet, and when the volume is all the way up my lights strobe which is understandable. In a year I have been recommended to replace the battery, and my cooling fan on the radiator has burnt out completely which looking back now I'm starting to think these issues might have been from the current draw. I wonder if we can control the alt clutch through a chip tuning? Aside from that this car's 6 speed cvt tranny sucks ass so if you're thinking of buying a Ford with a powershift I'd try to convince you to go with a manual if you can instead.

Another issue that our car has is if you have a stock head unit Ford has programmed them to turn down the bass as you turn up the volume so they don't have to warranty their pile of shit door speakers. You can test this by turning the volume to 30 (or whatever max is) listening for 10 seconds or so, then turning the volume below 20 and observe how the bass comes back with a 5sec delay. To get around this I installed one of these pre amp.

[MotorCityFats13]

I have a 2007 explorer 4.0L... I brought this issue up over on the explorer forum.... I didnt like how my battery was showing a resting voltage of 12.2 after 20 minutes of shutting off... so I tested the battery and 2 cells were at 50%, 2 cells at 75% and 2 cells at 100%... so I just went ahead and replaced it with the autozone AGM... then noticed that it now rests at 12.4 after same amount time... so issue is when its cold and I start it up my volt meter says 14.4 then after 20 minutes it drops down to 14.0 and will not go back to 14.4 until I shut it off for 2-4 hours.... so I asked everyone over on the forum what they observe from their charging system and people at first said it was a constant 14.4 and was told my regulator was going bad.... then 2 days later it all panned out and people started saying theirs was constant 14.0 like mine.... so now after 1 month of starting that thread its pretty much 50/50 some people charge at 14.4 and some at 14.0.... to be honest I dont want my AGM charging below 14.4 and this truck does not have any voltage gizmos its just PCM controled.... I just wish everyone chimed in and said everyone was getting 14.0vdc.... in the end I wouldnt be too concerned with the loss of .4vdc some cars/trucks just dont charge at 14.4

[BigHOUSTON]

My mazda is old now and used strictly for shows, so I am going to remove my AC compressor and put a gm alt there with a controller. Hopefully!

Who needs AC when there is bass. I had a mazda once, absolutely hated it. Motor blew and replaced. Replacement motor was jacked, and had to get it replaced. Flywheel and started never lined up again and never wanted to drive above 55.

I hope you Lemon Law'd your car, they can't sell you a pos. Remember Mazda is Ford, and I don't trust them. I drive a 2012 Ford Fiesta and this post makes a lot of sense to the power draw issues I've been having. I'm running a 1000w Zapco amp, never got into the big 3 yet, and when the volume is all the way up my lights strobe which is understandable. In a year I have been recommended to replace the battery, and my cooling fan on the radiator has burnt out completely which looking back now I'm starting to think these issues might have been from the current draw. I wonder if we can control the alt clutch through a chip tuning? Aside from that this car's 6 speed cvt tranny sucks ass so if you're thinking of buying a Ford with a powershift I'd try to convince you to go with a manual if you can instead.

Another issue that our car has is if you have a stock head unit Ford has programmed them to turn down the bass as you turn up the volume so they don't have to warranty their pile of shit door speakers. You can test this by turning the volume to 30 (or whatever max is) listening for 10 seconds or so, then turning the volume below 20 and observe how the bass comes back with a 5sec delay. To get around this I installed one of these pre amp.

The mazda I had was purchased used though a private seller, now onto more pressing matters. I have noticed the issue you stated about the head unit and bass resistance. I have a high/low converter installed in my vehicle to run rca's. But have highly considered that very item you purchased. How do you like it? Did you notice a difference in bass response? Also did you upgrade your door speakers?

[BigHOUSTON]

I have a 2007 explorer 4.0L... I brought this issue up over on the explorer forum.... I didnt like how my battery was showing a resting voltage of 12.2 after 20 minutes of shutting off... so I tested the battery and 2 cells were at 50%, 2 cells at 75% and 2 cells at 100%... so I just went ahead and replaced it with the autozone AGM... then noticed that it now rests at 12.4 after same amount time... so issue is when its cold and I start it up my volt meter says 14.4 then after 20 minutes it drops down to 14.0 and will not go back to 14.4 until I shut it off for 2-4 hours.... so I asked everyone over on the forum what they observe from their charging system and people at first said it was a constant 14.4 and was told my regulator was going bad.... then 2 days later it all panned out and people started saying theirs was constant 14.0 like mine.... so now after 1 month of starting that thread its pretty much 50/50 some people charge at 14.4 and some at 14.0.... to be honest I dont want my AGM charging below 14.4 and this truck does not have any voltage gizmos its just PCM controled.... I just wish everyone chimed in and said everyone was getting 14.0vdc.... in the end I wouldnt be too concerned with the loss of .4vdc some cars/trucks just dont charge at 14.4

Interesting, i do know that ive seen different charging voltages at the battery cables on my ford too. One particular occasion i was testing to see if i had voltage drop and if so how much. The vehicle had been running for probably 10-15 minutes, so everything was warmed up and the charging voltage was 14.09v. NBD right but then the other day I was installing xs battery to replace my stock. And figured hey let me check the voltage before and after so i can document and add to my build log. At cold crank my stock battery was charging at 14.81v, which surprised the hell out of me to be honest. Then I installed the xs power, started it up and it was charging at 14.97v. Kind of scared me honestly but i got on here and someone told me that its because the alternator was cold and alts charge higher when they are cold. but with that being said i did not check again to see if the charging receded after the vehicle warmed up more. So i dont know if this helps any or further confuses things

[Mike Gann]

My mazda is old now and used strictly for shows, so I am going to remove my AC compressor and put a gm alt there with a controller. Hopefully!

Who needs AC when there is bass. I had a mazda once, absolutely hated it. Motor blew and replaced. Replacement motor was jacked, and had to get it replaced. Flywheel and started never lined up again and never wanted to drive above 55.

I hope you Lemon Law'd your car, they can't sell you a pos. Remember Mazda is Ford, and I don't trust them. I drive a 2012 Ford Fiesta and this post makes a lot of sense to the power draw issues I've been having. I'm running a 1000w Zapco amp, never got into the big 3 yet, and when the volume is all the way up my lights strobe which is understandable. In a year I have been recommended to replace the battery, and my cooling fan on the radiator has burnt out completely which looking back now I'm starting to think these issues might have been from the current draw. I wonder if we can control the alt clutch through a chip tuning? Aside from that this car's 6 speed cvt tranny sucks ass so if you're thinking of buying a Ford with a powershift I'd try to convince you to go with a manual if you can instead.

Another issue that our car has is if you have a stock head unit Ford has programmed them to turn down the bass as you turn up the volume so they don't have to warranty their pile of shit door speakers. You can test this by turning the volume to 30 (or whatever max is) listening for 10 seconds or so, then turning the volume below 20 and observe how the bass comes back with a 5sec delay. To get around this I installed one of these pre amp.

The mazda I had was purchased used though a private seller, now onto more pressing matters. I have noticed the issue you stated about the head unit and bass resistance. I have a high/low converter installed in my vehicle to run rca's. But have highly considered that very item you purchased. How do you like it? Did you notice a difference in bass response? Also did you upgrade your door speakers?

I have not upgraded door speakers yet, thats actually half the reason I came on here and found your Ford post. Looking for a reference quality door speaker recommendations, eyes on the new sundown sa-6.5cs. I really want to install a cheap temporary highpass filter to the doors, or contemplating a parametric EQ. I did not get to hear my system without the LC2i but it does the trick. basically I'm just using the "accubass" setting on it and I don't notice any uneven bass gains or losses, very smooth. I'm not sure how it works though, my guess is that it reads the mids going up in voltage and keeps the same voltage to the low frequencies even if there is a drop? I would recommend to just get a pioneer head unit though if you can. Idk if you've seen the fiesta dash before but its so unique it wouldnt look right with a generic headunit install so I kept the stock

[BigHOUSTON]

My mazda is old now and used strictly for shows, so I am going to remove my AC compressor and put a gm alt there with a controller. Hopefully!

Who needs AC when there is bass. I had a mazda once, absolutely hated it. Motor blew and replaced. Replacement motor was jacked, and had to get it replaced. Flywheel and started never lined up again and never wanted to drive above 55.

I hope you Lemon Law'd your car, they can't sell you a pos. Remember Mazda is Ford, and I don't trust them. I drive a 2012 Ford Fiesta and this post makes a lot of sense to the power draw issues I've been having. I'm running a 1000w Zapco amp, never got into the big 3 yet, and when the volume is all the way up my lights strobe which is understandable. In a year I have been recommended to replace the battery, and my cooling fan on the radiator has burnt out completely which looking back now I'm starting to think these issues might have been from the current draw. I wonder if we can control the alt clutch through a chip tuning? Aside from that this car's 6 speed cvt tranny sucks ass so if you're thinking of buying a Ford with a powershift I'd try to convince you to go with a manual if you can instead.

Another issue that our car has is if you have a stock head unit Ford has programmed them to turn down the bass as you turn up the volume so they don't have to warranty their pile of shit door speakers. You can test this by turning the volume to 30 (or whatever max is) listening for 10 seconds or so, then turning the volume below 20 and observe how the bass comes back with a 5sec delay. To get around this I installed one of these pre amp.

The mazda I had was purchased used though a private seller, now onto more pressing matters. I have noticed the issue you stated about the head unit and bass resistance. I have a high/low converter installed in my vehicle to run rca's. But have highly considered that very item you purchased. How do you like it? Did you notice a difference in bass response? Also did you upgrade your door speakers?

I have not upgraded door speakers yet, thats actually half the reason I came on here and found your Ford post. Looking for a reference quality door speaker recommendations, eyes on the new sundown sa-6.5cs. I really want to install a cheap temporary highpass filter to the doors, or contemplating a parametric EQ. I did not get to hear my system without the LC2i but it does the trick. basically I'm just using the "accubass" setting on it and I don't notice any uneven bass gains or losses, very smooth. I'm not sure how it works though, my guess is that it reads the mids going up in voltage and keeps the same voltage to the low frequencies even if there is a drop? I would recommend to just get a pioneer head unit though if you can. Idk if you've seen the fiesta dash before but its so unique it wouldnt look right with a generic headunit install so I kept the stock

Might want to consider going onto Crutchfield.com. They have a what fits my car platform, they do extensive research on most vehicles. I checked and they have information on your vehicle. Such as mounting depth for door speakers, what head unit will fit, etc. That way you can isolate what speakers you want/can fit. They have a chat with an "expect" option. Typically they can give you a numerical mounting depth so you can do your own research for brands other than what they offer. Dont be surprised when brands like sundown, crescendo, soundstream, etc components dont fit since most have a mounting depth of 3" + . My fusion has a mounting depth of 2.14 or 2.2" in the front doors cant remember which. So I had to settle with RF punch 6.5 components(theyre in the mail so cant speak on how they sound yet). Hope this helps you out.

[Mike Gann]

My mazda is old now and used strictly for shows, so I am going to remove my AC compressor and put a gm alt there with a controller. Hopefully!

Who needs AC when there is bass. I had a mazda once, absolutely hated it. Motor blew and replaced. Replacement motor was jacked, and had to get it replaced. Flywheel and started never lined up again and never wanted to drive above 55.

I hope you Lemon Law'd your car, they can't sell you a pos. Remember Mazda is Ford, and I don't trust them. I drive a 2012 Ford Fiesta and this post makes a lot of sense to the power draw issues I've been having. I'm running a 1000w Zapco amp, never got into the big 3 yet, and when the volume is all the way up my lights strobe which is understandable. In a year I have been recommended to replace the battery, and my cooling fan on the radiator has burnt out completely which looking back now I'm starting to think these issues might have been from the current draw. I wonder if we can control the alt clutch through a chip tuning? Aside from that this car's 6 speed cvt tranny sucks ass so if you're thinking of buying a Ford with a powershift I'd try to convince you to go with a manual if you can instead.

Another issue that our car has is if you have a stock head unit Ford has programmed them to turn down the bass as you turn up the volume so they don't have to warranty their pile of shit door speakers. You can test this by turning the volume to 30 (or whatever max is) listening for 10 seconds or so, then turning the volume below 20 and observe how the bass comes back with a 5sec delay. To get around this I installed one of these pre amp.

The mazda I had was purchased used though a private seller, now onto more pressing matters. I have noticed the issue you stated about the head unit and bass resistance. I have a high/low converter installed in my vehicle to run rca's. But have highly considered that very item you purchased. How do you like it? Did you notice a difference in bass response? Also did you upgrade your door speakers?

I have not upgraded door speakers yet, thats actually half the reason I came on here and found your Ford post. Looking for a reference quality door speaker recommendations, eyes on the new sundown sa-6.5cs. I really want to install a cheap temporary highpass filter to the doors, or contemplating a parametric EQ. I did not get to hear my system without the LC2i but it does the trick. basically I'm just using the "accubass" setting on it and I don't notice any uneven bass gains or losses, very smooth. I'm not sure how it works though, my guess is that it reads the mids going up in voltage and keeps the same voltage to the low frequencies even if there is a drop? I would recommend to just get a pioneer head unit though if you can. Idk if you've seen the fiesta dash before but its so unique it wouldnt look right with a generic headunit install so I kept the stock

Might want to consider going onto Crutchfield.com. They have a what fits my car platform, they do extensive research on most vehicles. I checked and they have information on your vehicle. Such as mounting depth for door speakers, what head unit will fit, etc. That way you can isolate what speakers you want/can fit. They have a chat with an "expect" option. Typically they can give you a numerical mounting depth so you can do your own research for brands other than what they offer. Dont be surprised when brands like sundown, crescendo, soundstream, etc components dont fit since most have a mounting depth of 3" + . My fusion has a mounting depth of 2.14 or 2.2" in the front doors cant remember which. So I had to settle with RF punch 6.5 components(theyre in the mail so cant speak on how they sound yet). Hope this helps you out.

Interesting, never seen their feature. Only thing it lists is a Pioneer head unit, generic as any. I bet they're thinking if I buy the dash kit that I've seen here and there. But I'm interested in what they do with the screen that the car came with that displays the radio, clock, settings, bluetooth, etc. In this photo I see that they modified it to show the time in the center but that doesn't seem worth the trouble, it's even twice as expensive as just buying the LC2i and keeping stock headunit. I did a SPL sweep test on the mids/highs and I was very surprised to see that the stock speakers have a flat frequency response even with alleged Sony driven head unit. As for speakers it doesnt seem to be listing any sizes or recommendations, only photos of the stock speakers. That's okay though thanks for the heads up on the depths, if your fusion can't fit the sa-86.5cs then my fiesta definitely cant I'll have to consider something else. I wonder what I can gain from putting the stock door speakers on an SQ amp.