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Alpine 149bt time alignment


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If ur running passive ur wasting your time. Crossovers negate any useful TA. And that tried to apply to both sets unless you have each piece ran on its own channel. Basically TA is only useful in an active setup with no rears. Passive covers are tough to work around.

My SPL to SQ Build Log

Vehicle:
1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT
5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6
Stock Alt

Equipment:

Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT

Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel

Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D

Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12

Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy

Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers 

Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5"

Processor- MiniDSP 2x4

RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series

Wire- EB Flex 2/0

 

-Member of Team SounDrive

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Yeah to run 2 sets of components in the front alone. I would need another 4 channel amp. Not really looking into that right now. But if I were to do that, would it make THAT big of a difference in my sound? Would my amp push too much for my tweeters? Could I ever properly align 2 sets in the front stage? I have 1 6.5 in the door, 1 in the kick, and 2 tweeters in the door panel up by the sail panel (no Fence pillar pods) on each side

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Try this. Measure the distance to the speaker closest to your headrest (or whatever point your measuring from) and call it L. Now for every other speaker measurement subtract L from the total distance. Input those values into your T/A settings.

Example: your driver rear is closest at 21". Your driver front is 23.7", so take 23.7"-21"= 2.7" so enter that value for FL.

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I think I screwed that all up after reading my manual for my alpine hu (which is not the same model as yours). It's been a while since I played with my T/A settings. But it looks like it should be farthest=L and each other speakers T/A should be L-(speaker distance) just like what you were implying.

I apologize for any confusion.

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I ended up doing something similar. I took all my measurements and converted to m/s, entered those values and save under one of my t/a profiles, then started tweaking to move the stage around and widen it. After messing around a but I'd save that profile and then compare it to the first one.

I did this over several mornings in my shop's parking lot, so I wouldn't have listening fatigue affecting my decisions.

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