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Help! 4th Order Build


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This is my first time building and designing a 4th Order bandpass box. I've got the basics down. Have the seal portion to manufacturer specs and have the ported section to twice that.

Now, my issue is the tuning. I don't understand it. Not that I don't understand how to tune a port, I just don't understand what I am able to play in frequencies through it.

From what I've read and heard about, I should get a range of frequencies that I can play above and below the hz of the tuned port. How can I find out this range so I can set my HP and LP filters correctly. I don't want to build multiple ports and guestimate because I really don't have the money to purchase new sub's.

Any help on this tuning thing would be really helpful.

2001 Tahoe

No system. Not even aftermarket headunit.

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Not trying to pick on you, but if all your understanding is you need to make the ported side twice the sealed side, you don't understand 4th order bandpass boxes and you don't have the basics down.

What range of frequencies you are going to be able to play are going to depend GREATLY on the particular specs of your sub/s. Different subs will give very different results. What subs are you going to be using? What amp? What is your motivation for using a bandpass box in the first place?

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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Not trying to pick on you, but if all your understanding is you need to make the ported side twice the sealed side, you don't understand 4th order bandpass boxes and you don't have the basics down.

What range of frequencies you are going to be able to play are going to depend GREATLY on the particular specs of your sub/s. Different subs will give very different results. What subs are you going to be using? What amp? What is your motivation for using a bandpass box in the first place?

I'm using 2 12" RE SEXv2 12D4 sub's and I'll be using 2 Cadence Ultrashock A7HC amps. One per sub.

I know I don't know anything about 4th Order. That's why I was asking. From what I've read I should build it 2:1 for the box space. After that I've got really no clue.

I know this seems like a newb thing to be asking but I can't really find anything on the building of these.

The reason I want to build one is mainly for SPL. I love SQ but I think I wanted to try an SPL box this time.

2001 Tahoe

No system. Not even aftermarket headunit.

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Don't worry about not knowing much about band pass boxes, everyone has to start somewhere, there isn't a lot of info out there on them, and a lot of what info there is is bad advice.

What kind of vehicle is this going in? If max SPL is your goal a regular ported box is almost always your best solution.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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Don't worry about not knowing much about band pass boxes, everyone has to start somewhere, there isn't a lot of info out there on them, and a lot of what info there is is bad advice.

What kind of vehicle is this going in? If max SPL is your goal a regular ported box is almost always your best solution.

Strongly agree.

Especially with the last line. If you're not willing to build a replaceable port and do a lot of testing and tuning, a ported box gives you the greatest chance of not leaving too much on the table in a 'one and done' situation.

Static drops are my bag.

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Don't worry about not knowing much about band pass boxes, everyone has to start somewhere, there isn't a lot of info out there on them, and a lot of what info there is is bad advice.

What kind of vehicle is this going in? If max SPL is your goal a regular ported box is almost always your best solution.

Strongly agree.

Especially with the last line. If you're not willing to build a replaceable port and do a lot of testing and tuning, a ported box gives you the greatest chance of not leaving too much on the table in a 'one and done' situation.

Well, I can make multiple ports with this design. I should be able to remove and insurt another one. Its just I don't have the money to throw around to spend on extra resources.

I already have a ported box, but its in my trunk. And I wanted a bandpass box mainly for the performance that I've been seeing and reading about.

The box is going to go in the trunk of a 1997 Acura CL 2.2L. The sealed side was going to have a slanted removable face and the port on the ported section I was going to have stick through the armrest hole in my back seat. I figured that even if it doesn't turn out the exact way I want it'll be a good learning experience. Now the way I was designing it, the airspace was going to be shared between the two subs and the back half portion was going to be in my ported section.

My measurements for the design is going to have to be a 2:1 ratio since I don't really have any more space in my trunk. So ported was going to be ~4cuft and the sealed was going to be 2cuft. From everything I've read this should be fine, I just don't know how to tune. I want to get to 20hz since my amps can't go any lower and I want to play as high as 60hz. I really don't know if this is possible, and if not then I'll tune it to where I do get the 20hz.

2001 Tahoe

No system. Not even aftermarket headunit.

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I don't want to build multiple ports and guestimate

Well, I can make multiple ports with this design.

Just going off info given. Until you gave all the information people can only give generalized answers.

That said, it's not a horrible idea to use a ski-hole ported bandpass in your situation, but it may not be louder than your current box. It may help transfer more of that energy into the cabin of the vehicle compared to what you have now, depending on install technique.

Forget about the ratio of the box. What I would do is plug those subs into Winisd or a similar modeling program. May not be exact, but that way you can see how the two box dimensions play off each other. You are on the right track by starting with the recommended sealed box for the sealed side, maybe start with RE's recommended ported box for that side and see how it models up...regardless of it's relationship (ratio) to the sealed side. Adjust tuning frequency and box size from there and see what happens.

Static drops are my bag.

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I don't want to build multiple ports and guestimate

Well, I can make multiple ports with this design.

Just going off info given. Until you gave all the information people can only give generalized answers.

That said, it's not a horrible idea to use a ski-hole ported bandpass in your situation, but it may not be louder than your current box. It may help transfer more of that energy into the cabin of the vehicle compared to what you have now, depending on install technique.

Forget about the ratio of the box. What I would do is plug those subs into Winisd or a similar modeling program. May not be exact, but that way you can see how the two box dimensions play off each other. You are on the right track by starting with the recommended sealed box for the sealed side, maybe start with RE's recommended ported box for that side and see how it models up...regardless of it's relationship (ratio) to the sealed side. Adjust tuning frequency and box size from there and see what happens.

I've tried using winisd and couldn't use it do to the fact that I can't find a complete spec sheet of my subs. I've looked through RE's website and any forum with info on them and they all give the same stuff for info, and there isn't enough to put in winisd.

The factory specs for sealed is 1cuft per sub and ported is 2cuft, so it would still be a 2:1. For my port I was going to use a square port (not slotted) so that I could have the port slip through the armrest hole in my rear seat.

So with my design, its basically right from what you guys are saying, I just need to get my port right.

How exactly would I tune the port? I know that it isn't like tuning a regular ported box, where you put your subsonic at what you fund your box too. So can you guys give me any in site to the tuning aspect?

I've never heard of a ski-hole port.

2001 Tahoe

No system. Not even aftermarket headunit.

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I've never heard of a ski-hole port.

Your arm rest folds down to allow skis to fit in that car. Ski-hole.

Any sort of accurate tuning will require the specs on the subs. Send an email to RE or the dealer you got them from. Unless someone comes along that happens to have them. Best of luck, should be cool if you can get it figured out.

Static drops are my bag.

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I've never heard of a ski-hole port.

Your arm rest folds down to allow skis to fit in that car. Ski-hole.

Any sort of accurate tuning will require the specs on the subs. Send an email to RE or the dealer you got them from. Unless someone comes along that happens to have them. Best of luck, should be cool if you can get it figured out.

Thanks, I'll be sure to do that. Thanks to everyone who was helping me. This really did help me better understand how to build a bandpass box.

2001 Tahoe

No system. Not even aftermarket headunit.

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