MrSkippyJ Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 Just to reiterate what trig said though, ignore the ratio. It doesn't help design at all. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natemikegray Posted June 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 Just to reiterate what trig said though, ignore the ratio. It doesn't help design at all. I was just going to go by manufacturer specs for both half's (which in my case is a 2 ta 1). I forgot to mention this yesterday because its kind of a newb question. When I go to start this build I am going to have to build it in my trunk. This is the first time I've ever not been able to screw my boards to each other. Could liquid nails work as a substitute for screws? I'm afraid of the box falling apart if I do that, but there's no way for me to screw my pieces together in the trunk, or build it first and slide it in. 2001 Tahoe No system. Not even aftermarket headunit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 I was just going to go by manufacturer specs for both half's (which in my case is a 2 ta 1). I forgot to mention this yesterday because its kind of a newb question. When I go to start this build I am going to have to build it in my trunk. This is the first time I've ever not been able to screw my boards to each other. Could liquid nails work as a substitute for screws? I'm afraid of the box falling apart if I do that, but there's no way for me to screw my pieces together in the trunk, or build it first and slide it in. Just using the manufactures recommendation for sealed and ported box sizes and then building a 4th order bandpass box with those really isn't the right way to do it. The sealed size is probably going to be fine, but the ported side is a complete crap-shoot. I'm not trying to discourage you, but there no way to know what this box is going to sound like. Like MrSkippyJ said, ratios are completely meaningless. I would be happy to model the box in simulation software for you, but RE Audio doesn't publish a single T/S parameter for that sub, which is a complete fail on their part. Maybe you can contact them and get them to give you the T/S specs and then post them here. Putting all the above aside, if you are going to build the box in your trunk here is my suggestion. First off get yourself a Kreg jig like this: http://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-Pocket-Hole-Jig/1072743 or this: http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-pocket-hole-jig-kit-96264.html Interestingly enough, the Harbor Freight version is actually really nice. I have it myself. Using the Kreg jig and screws without any glue you want to completely dry assemble the box outside your vehicle. Once you have everything fitting together as good as you can get it you remove the screws and take it apart, then put it back together with glue inside your vehicle. For glue I'd suggest PL premium, its an expanding glue that will seal any small gaps you have and will provide plenty of strength where you can't put screws, its messy though. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natemikegray Posted June 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 I was just going to go by manufacturer specs for both half's (which in my case is a 2 ta 1). I forgot to mention this yesterday because its kind of a newb question. When I go to start this build I am going to have to build it in my trunk. This is the first time I've ever not been able to screw my boards to each other. Could liquid nails work as a substitute for screws? I'm afraid of the box falling apart if I do that, but there's no way for me to screw my pieces together in the trunk, or build it first and slide it in. Just using the manufactures recommendation for sealed and ported box sizes and then building a 4th order bandpass box with those really isn't the right way to do it. The sealed size is probably going to be fine, but the ported side is a complete crap-shoot. I'm not trying to discourage you, but there no way to know what this box is going to sound like. Like MrSkippyJ said, ratios are completely meaningless. I would be happy to model the box in simulation software for you, but RE Audio doesn't publish a single T/S parameter for that sub, which is a complete fail on their part. Maybe you can contact them and get them to give you the T/S specs and then post them here. Putting all the above aside, if you are going to build the box in your trunk here is my suggestion. First off get yourself a Kreg jig like this: http://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-Pocket-Hole-Jig/1072743 or this: http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-pocket-hole-jig-kit-96264.html Interestingly enough, the Harbor Freight version is actually really nice. I have it myself. Using the Kreg jig and screws without any glue you want to completely dry assemble the box outside your vehicle. Once you have everything fitting together as good as you can get it you remove the screws and take it apart, then put it back together with glue inside your vehicle. For glue I'd suggest PL premium, its an expanding glue that will seal any small gaps you have and will provide plenty of strength where you can't put screws, its messy though. That jig does look like itll come in handy for this build. I may invest in one. I will definitely post the specs of the sub's. I wrote them yesterday (6/17/16) but I think they were closed when I wrote them. I may try and write a few different dealers and get those specs. One thing about this box, I can't make it any bigger. This is the max size I can go. The designs total cuft is ~6.5cuft and I can't get it bigger. Definitely smaller if need, buy not really bigger. And thanks again for all the help. I know that trying to educate someone who has almost zero prior knowledge can get frustrating, especially since youre taking time out of your day to do so. It really means a lot. 2001 Tahoe No system. Not even aftermarket headunit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natemikegray Posted June 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 I was just going to go by manufacturer specs for both half's (which in my case is a 2 ta 1). I forgot to mention this yesterday because its kind of a newb question. When I go to start this build I am going to have to build it in my trunk. This is the first time I've ever not been able to screw my boards to each other. Could liquid nails work as a substitute for screws? I'm afraid of the box falling apart if I do that, but there's no way for me to screw my pieces together in the trunk, or build it first and slide it in. This is what I got from Sonic Electronic. Thermal Power Handling [Pe], Watts - 750 Nominal Impedance(dual) [Znom] - 2 or 4 One-way, Linear Excursion [Xmax], mm - 20 Efficiency [sPL 1W/1m], dB - 86.9 Volume Displacement [Vas], cu.ft/liters - 0.15 / 4.25 I can see if I can get more info but this is what I got so far. 2001 Tahoe No system. Not even aftermarket headunit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natemikegray Posted June 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 I was just going to go by manufacturer specs for both half's (which in my case is a 2 ta 1). I forgot to mention this yesterday because its kind of a newb question. When I go to start this build I am going to have to build it in my trunk. This is the first time I've ever not been able to screw my boards to each other. Could liquid nails work as a substitute for screws? I'm afraid of the box falling apart if I do that, but there's no way for me to screw my pieces together in the trunk, or build it first and slide it in. Just using the manufactures recommendation for sealed and ported box sizes and then building a 4th order bandpass box with those really isn't the right way to do it. The sealed size is probably going to be fine, but the ported side is a complete crap-shoot. I'm not trying to discourage you, but there no way to know what this box is going to sound like. Like MrSkippyJ said, ratios are completely meaningless. I would be happy to model the box in simulation software for you, but RE Audio doesn't publish a single T/S parameter for that sub, which is a complete fail on their part. Maybe you can contact them and get them to give you the T/S specs and then post them here. Putting all the above aside, if you are going to build the box in your trunk here is my suggestion. First off get yourself a Kreg jig like this: http://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-Pocket-Hole-Jig/1072743 or this: http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-pocket-hole-jig-kit-96264.html Interestingly enough, the Harbor Freight version is actually really nice. I have it myself. Using the Kreg jig and screws without any glue you want to completely dry assemble the box outside your vehicle. Once you have everything fitting together as good as you can get it you remove the screws and take it apart, then put it back together with glue inside your vehicle. For glue I'd suggest PL premium, its an expanding glue that will seal any small gaps you have and will provide plenty of strength where you can't put screws, its messy though. Alright. This is all I could get for specs.Subwoofer Specifications Subwoofer SeriesSEX v2 (RE Audio) Subwoofer Size12" RMS Power Handling750 watts Voice Coil(s)Dual Impedance (Per Voice Coil)4 ohms Voice Coil Diameter3" Sensitivity86.9 dB Xmax (millimeters)20 mm Subwoofer DesignRound / Circle Main Cone ColorBlack Woofer CompositionDual Composite 2-Piece Cone Woofer SurroundRubatek Foam Magnet StructureDouble Stacked Subwoofer GrilleNo Re-Cone Kit AvailableNo Recommended Enclosure Specifications Recommended Enclosure TypePorted / Vented Sealed Minimum Sealed Box Volume0.75 cubic feet Optimum Sealed Box Volume1.0 cubic feet Minimum Ported Box Volume1.5 cubic feet Optimum Ported Box Volume2.0 cubic feet Top-Mount Depth6-1/2" Cutout Diameter11-3/16" Shallow Mount InstallationNo 2001 Tahoe No system. Not even aftermarket headunit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Well it looks like you made a good effort, but unfortunately none of the info you got is what we need. If you look here and click on the "Specifications" tab you can see an example of what I'm looking for: http://www.ficaraudio.com/product/x-series-x10/ At a minimum I need to know the Fs, QTS, Re, Sd and Vas. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natemikegray Posted June 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Well it looks like you made a good effort, but unfortunately none of the info you got is what we need. If you look here and click on the "Specifications" tab you can see an example of what I'm looking for: http://www.ficaraudio.com/product/x-series-x10/ At a minimum I need to know the Fs, QTS, Re, Sd and Vas. I had just now called RE for the full specs of the subwoofer. The guy will be sending me an email with three data sheets of specs. Each data sheet he said was labeled: 1 voice coil, Series, Parallel. Just let me know which one you need it for and I'll get that info to you by tomorrow. 2001 Tahoe No system. Not even aftermarket headunit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 Either the series or the parallel data will work. Parallel is probably better since that how I assume the subs will be used. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natemikegray Posted June 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 Either the series or the parallel data will work. Parallel is probably better since that how I assume the subs will be used. Alright, this is what I got from one of the teck guys at RE. Not the guy I told you about but its one of them. Fs = 38.19 Hz Qms = 6.107 Vas = 1.052 cu.ft Xmax = 1.1 in Sd = 76.09 sq.in Qes = 0.781 Re = 2.021 ohms Le = 1.746 mH Z = 2.425 ohms 2001 Tahoe No system. Not even aftermarket headunit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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