DLHgn Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Ok, I'll go head and try to get that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Also a 34+ tall box and you are porting up? It would be great if you mentioned what the vehicle is it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLHgn Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Also a 34+ tall box and you are porting up? It would be great if you mentioned what the vehicle is it. It's for a '98 Ford Ranger Extended Cab but like I said, idk the exact dimensions yet so this is just kinda of an experiment to get some experience designing boxes and to play around with the general shape I'll be working with. I got the measurements by looking at pre fab boxes for the vehicle (the 48" width), seeing what other people have done (15" depth) and kinda guestimating how high the widow sil is (36" hight). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLHgn Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Also a 34+ tall box and you are porting up? It would be great if you mentioned what the vehicle is it. Also, is there a problem with the port being up on this design? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLHgn Posted June 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 So I redesigned the box with an appropriate bracing panel and bracing above and below subs. I also made the port 8" X 12.75" and extended it to be total of 27.25" long (including outside board). This leaves me with a net volume of ~9.5 ft^3 and tuning at about 28.5Hz. According to WinIsd, even with 3500w (this setup wouldn't exceed 3000w) I will only get to about 29 m/s port velocity with is below the max recommended of 30 m/s and at 3000w I should only reach ~27 m/s. Does this design look more sound? Any other changes that y'all would make? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 That looks pretty good. I'd just move the braces above and below the driver cutout so that they are closer to the hole. Having them right next to the hole would be best. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLHgn Posted June 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 That looks pretty good. I'd just move the braces above and below the driver cutout so that they are closer to the hole. Having them right next to the hole would be best. That makes sense. The close to a panel they are the less useful they are right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLHgn Posted June 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 That looks pretty good. I'd just move the braces above and below the driver cutout so that they are closer to the hole. Having them right next to the hole would be best. How about this? The braces are about 3/8" away. And actually they'll be a bit further due to making the inner baffel cutouts slightly smaller to counter sink the subs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 Looks perfect. And to respond to your previous question, you are correct, having them closer to the top and bottom panels reduces their effectiveness. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLHgn Posted June 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 What do you think the lowest most conceivable tuning for these drivers in this enclosure are? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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