bsneon98 Posted November 25, 2016 Report Share Posted November 25, 2016 How hard would it to be to increase the starter wire gauge? If your going to be right there it probably wouldn't hurt with all the cold temps you see. I love overkill electrical, can never be too much Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/152954-1998-plymouth-neon-updates/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted November 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2016 How hard would it to be to increase the starter wire gauge? If your going to be right there it probably wouldn't hurt with all the cold temps you see. I love overkill electrical, can never be too much It would be a pain, especially the way the factory terminals are, and i like to keep factory look and function. Adding to is best IMO. Head out in about an hr to start it up, letting block heater do its job for a bit. I have battery ground to frame right now but was thinking of trying starter case bolt to motor. (see some vids of that location) It hard to find good pics or vids on this vehicle that show exactly where it suppose to be. Factor ground to body already so it might be engine ground i am dealing with and get better results to starter case/block. Hate fixing someone else's fuck ups! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsneon98 Posted November 25, 2016 Report Share Posted November 25, 2016 How hard would it to be to increase the starter wire gauge? If your going to be right there it probably wouldn't hurt with all the cold temps you see. I love overkill electrical, can never be too much It would be a pain, especially the way the factory terminals are, and i like to keep factory look and function. Adding to is best IMO. Head out in about an hr to start it up, letting block heater do its job for a bit. I have battery ground to frame right now but was thinking of trying starter case bolt to motor. (see some vids of that location) It hard to find good pics or vids on this vehicle that show exactly where it suppose to be. Factor ground to body already so it might be engine ground i am dealing with and get better results to starter case/block. Hate fixing someone else's fuck ups! Very well said. I do like how the battery has separate posts up top and on the side. Wish my terminals were like that lol Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/152954-1998-plymouth-neon-updates/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted November 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2016 Good news! I swapped factory ground to starter case bolt and thats where its suppose to be. I had a 1 in 3 shot to get it wrong. I hit my mark on the first try! Ha Really happy that was the fix, i was starting to get bummed! 7+ hrs of cleaning up wiring and running everything nice to still end up with the same issue, Battery that came with would have been fine for no system amped and everything off HU. But who wants that! Now the budget builds are the challenge. I am like $525 right now on this system, I did my brothers Ranger build for just under 1K. And HU was $400 (stupid APP Radio) 4 RF P1683, PBR300x4, RF P300x1, RF Shallow sub & enclosure. Kinda like the budget builds. On to the next thing.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted November 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2016 Back to system: I have a RF 3Sixty new i havent used. I wonder what gain if any there would be for using this for the front stage. I plan to run RCA's for front and rear channels in case HU gets upgraded in the future( I am sure it will along with the front stage.) I suppose i could have saved myself $100 but putting in the P500-4 anp i have but thats double the power ratings of the speakers. And i do see myself putting some comps in in the future. Always want to try the PPI 3-way set. 6.5" in the doors w/ them deaedened to shit, 3.5" in dash with twtrs on the A-Pillars or dash. Anyway the 3 Sixty would take a bit more time to for install, put out a higher voltage signal to amp but would it be cleaner? Pro's and con's? I am just trying to give those JBL's the best chance to sound good for what they are. I do believe in keeping it simple and not adding to many devices to the signal chain. And only line driver i have ever used was the LC7 which was a great unit. On another Note SHCA Big 3 kit will be here today. Be nice to put it in tonight but that might be pushing it with the wife working in the garage 2 nights in a row. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsneon98 Posted November 25, 2016 Report Share Posted November 25, 2016 Back to system: I have a RF 3Sixty new i havent used. I wonder what gain if any there would be for using this for the front stage. I plan to run RCA's for front and rear channels in case HU gets upgraded in the future( I am sure it will along with the front stage.) I suppose i could have saved myself $100 but putting in the P500-4 anp i have but thats double the power ratings of the speakers. And i do see myself putting some comps in in the future. Always want to try the PPI 3-way set. 6.5" in the doors w/ them deaedened to shit, 3.5" in dash with twtrs on the A-Pillars or dash. Anyway the 3 Sixty would take a bit more time to for install, put out a higher voltage signal to amp but would it be cleaner? Pro's and con's? I am just trying to give those JBL's the best chance to sound good for what they are. I do believe in keeping it simple and not adding to many devices to the signal chain. And only line driver i have ever used was the LC7 which was a great unit. On another Note SHCA Big 3 kit will be here today. Be nice to put it in tonight but that might be pushing it with the wife working in the garage 2 nights in a row. Good to hear it man! Got my 20ft of SHCA coming tomorrow for the winter beater lol Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/152954-1998-plymouth-neon-updates/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted November 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2016 I have to say that they are really good at getting there product out fast. i live in Alaska and to get there shit in a few days is really good imo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsneon98 Posted November 26, 2016 Report Share Posted November 26, 2016 I have to say that they are really good at getting there product out fast. i live in Alaska and to get there shit in a few days is really good imo. I hear ya! Free 2 day shipping from Nevada. Sky High FTMFW! Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/152954-1998-plymouth-neon-updates/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted November 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2016 Ya but there crimping method suck ass. Going to email and ask them for some new lugs to crimp on. Looks like a slug hammer did it. Plus i have a 10 ton mechanical criimper that cold welds the lug to the wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsneon98 Posted November 26, 2016 Report Share Posted November 26, 2016 Ya but there crimping method suck ass. Going to email and ask them for some new lugs to crimp on. Looks like a slug hammer did it. Plus i have a 10 ton mechanical criimper that cold welds the lug to the wire. Hmm, considering they have that huge hydraulic crimper that's what should be used.. Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/152954-1998-plymouth-neon-updates/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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