RooTxBeeR Posted January 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 3 hours ago, Joe X said: 0.75" is the thickness of the wood, to make things simpler you can just draw the center line on the board and draw the internal walls as well, it will be obvious at that time how long your L2 needs to be, anyways that 0.75" will not make any meaningful difference in the box operation, if you did it like that never mind and enjoy your new box! You added that .75 because of the extra baffle correct? Torres automatically takes into account 1 board being apart of the baffle? Because if that is the case, than the number I got was correct. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 The 0.75" is part of the Torres "physical port length" if you are using the center line method you don't need to care about it, it's added because when the port turns the thickness of L1 becomes part of that "physical port length", below the Torres "physical port length" is in red and the center line is in yellow: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted January 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 55 minutes ago, Joe X said: The 0.75" is part of the Torres "physical port length" if you are using the center line method you don't need to care about it, it's added because when the port turns the thickness of L1 becomes part of that "physical port length", below the Torres "physical port length" is in red and the center line is in yellow: I need to think more about this, can't seem to figure out were I am going wrong. Now that I realize that about the .75 with physical port length, my dimensions I derived from using the physical port length, is .75 short, and the one derived from using center line, is 1.5 short. I will think more and ask more later. Thanks. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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