wL<3bass Posted May 5, 2008 Report Posted May 5, 2008 Try a 200amp battery isolator http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=5297 Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references...
Matt Young Posted May 5, 2008 Report Posted May 5, 2008 Try a 200amp battery isolator http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=5297 If you run an Isolator, you will loose the reduced voltage drop benifits of running the batteries in parralel. I wouldn't reccomend one for this type of application. Quote
lance_aka_64 Posted May 6, 2008 Report Posted May 6, 2008 This may be a stupid question but what is your factory ground from the battery up front connected to. Some where on your car copper will have to touch steal for a ground right. I may be wrong. true, but do the factory accessory's use the current that a amplifier will? and pull the power as fast? sorry if i sound like a dick... i know you know your shit, this is just stuff that i think about. Quote Need any thing chromed? Hit me up!!! gamer tag: (360) mEmEnToMoRi64 My Myspace refs: from here: RollinSoLow, Derrick824, Ray from c.a.c.o. : teamsubgopoof, splvictim20, SundownAudioNY from C.A.J. : Donpisto, spladdict19, CAJunkyard, JBLCAMRY, DasBot (robot underground) from ca.com: alxmlr789,photocrazy8
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