Cboeger2 Posted March 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2018 45 minutes ago, bcbrassard said: Smaller foot print is nice. Its why i run all Power line in my Lancer. There amps have done over rated for decades, running a 1999 Power 1000a1 in the wife Malibu and it slams. But i get it, newer gear is nice. Hopefully the prime will sound as good as that Punch. I’m running a 15 year old RF p600.1 that’s rated at 640rms @ 2 ohms (birth sheet) for a sa-12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fmedina Posted March 14, 2018 Report Share Posted March 14, 2018 22 hours ago, Cboeger2 said: I guess I’m confused, I haven’t done a component set before, the speaker wires that hook up to the amp are connected to the head unit wires, but the side that connects directly to your factory wiring harness. So you’re saying I need to hook up the speaker to the factory speaker wires and then also splice another wire that’s hooked into that speaker into the woofer crossover, and then same thing thing for the tweeter, (which all is obvious.) What I’m confused on is what wires I run into the input setting of the crossover. When I ripped this stuff out of my totaled car I don’t remember extra wires being ran from the amp back to the speaker doors. Just the speaker wires from the head unit harness to the amp. I see. So the wires in your doors are going on the input terminals on the crossovers. Then run some wire from the woofer to the woofer terminals and wire from tweeter to tweeter terminals. If you have wires coming directly from your amp then those will be on the input. In your case they're splicing in the harness which is then distributed to the doors. So basically same shit lol Hope that helps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.