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Component set with crossover


Cboeger2

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amplifier positive and negative to crossover positive and negative input, output to woofer on WF positive and negative, then TW negative goes to tweeter negative, and place the tweeter positive on either the -3dB, 0dB, or +3dB for whichever attenuation setting you want for your tweeter.

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2 hours ago, reedal said:

amplifier positive and negative to crossover positive and negative input, output to woofer on WF positive and negative, then TW negative goes to tweeter negative, and place the tweeter positive on either the -3dB, 0dB, or +3dB for whichever attenuation setting you want for your tweeter.

^ that. Not to be a smart ass but it says right on the crossovers lol

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4 hours ago, fmedina said:

^ that. Not to be a smart ass but it says right on the crossovers lol

haha yeahhhhh that's exactly what I was thinking. but better to ask if you're unsure than to possibly do it wrong and mess something up.

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7 hours ago, reedal said:

amplifier positive and negative to crossover positive and negative input, output to woofer on WF positive and negative, then TW negative goes to tweeter negative, and place the tweeter positive on either the -3dB, 0dB, or +3dB for whichever attenuation setting you want for your tweeter.

I guess I’m confused, I haven’t done a component set before, the speaker wires that hook up to the amp are connected to the head unit wires, but the side that connects directly to your factory wiring harness.

So you’re saying I need to hook up the speaker to the factory speaker wires and then also splice another wire that’s hooked into that speaker into the woofer crossover, and then same thing thing for the tweeter, (which all is obvious.)

 

What I’m confused on is what wires I run into the input setting of the crossover. When I ripped this stuff out of my totaled car I don’t remember extra wires being ran from the amp back to the speaker doors. Just the speaker wires from the head unit harness to the amp. 

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2 hours ago, Cboeger2 said:

I guess I’m confused, I haven’t done a component set before, the speaker wires that hook up to the amp are connected to the head unit wires, but the side that connects directly to your factory wiring harness.

So you’re saying I need to hook up the speaker to the factory speaker wires and then also splice another wire that’s hooked into that speaker into the woofer crossover, and then same thing thing for the tweeter, (which all is obvious.)

 

What I’m confused on is what wires I run into the input setting of the crossover. When I ripped this stuff out of my totaled car I don’t remember extra wires being ran from the amp back to the speaker doors. Just the speaker wires from the head unit harness to the amp. 

what amp do you have?

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I would imagine that older Punch does more than rated. Prime is good but even an older Punch would be better IMO. Wire up to 2 ohm and try it out before buying a new amp. 

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59 minutes ago, bcbrassard said:

I would imagine that older Punch does more than rated. Prime is good but even an older Punch would be better IMO. Wire up to 2 ohm and try it out before buying a new amp. 

I couldn’t see a 14 year old RF punch that’s rated at 50x4 doing more than 75x4. This new one should do at least 90X4. Also it’s kind of nice to have a newer amp that’s more efficient and half the size 

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Smaller foot print is nice. Its why i run all Power line in my Lancer. There amps have done over rated for decades, running a 1999 Power 1000a1 in the wife Malibu and it slams. But i get it, newer gear is nice. Hopefully the prime will sound as good as that Punch.

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