MyNameIsNoob Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 Hey yall. I'm about to finish up an enclosure using a kerfed port opening. This is only my second time to do this, so I still have questions. The first time was in my spare tire well for a down fire sub in my hatch to fire into. For that one I used liquid nail in all the gaps. It went fast due to the thickness of it, filled the gaps n lasted until I tore it all out. This time I wanted to make sure its strong enough, so I used Tightbond 2 since that's what I use to make enclosures. Im thinking those kerfs went alot faster the first time I did it (and it was ab 2 feet of kerfs vs 8 or 9 inches this time). Idk if caution got the best of me, but it seemed to take alot of glue and alot more time to fill the kerfs w Tightbond vs the liquid nail. Well I have 2 more kerfs to do, so my question is what are some other options that will fill the kerfs a bit more efficiently than tighbond, but still strong? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiBo Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 1 hour ago, MyNameIsNoob said: Hey yall. I'm about to finish up an enclosure using a kerfed port opening. This is only my second time to do this, so I still have questions. The first time was in my spare tire well for a down fire sub in my hatch to fire into. For that one I used liquid nail in all the gaps. It went fast due to the thickness of it, filled the gaps n lasted until I tore it all out. This time I wanted to make sure its strong enough, so I used Tightbond 2 since that's what I use to make enclosures. Im thinking those kerfs went alot faster the first time I did it (and it was ab 2 feet of kerfs vs 8 or 9 inches this time). Idk if caution got the best of me, but it seemed to take alot of glue and alot more time to fill the kerfs w Tightbond vs the liquid nail. Well I have 2 more kerfs to do, so my question is what are some other options that will fill the kerfs a bit more efficiently than tighbond, but still strong? Thanks in advance! I would TiteBond 2 it still. Did you use MDF, Birch, or Baltic Birch? Home Depot Birch kerfs better with no lines afterwards. Just letting you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiBo Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 home Depot Birch with Baltic behind it for added strength. The home Depot Birch is actually pine with a birch veneer so it basically sucks. Kerfs the cleanest tho. Put a 45 connecting the two Baltic pieces together and strength isn't an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsneon98 Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 titebond, PL, fiberglass, and as dibo said a 45 would all work how pretty and how much time you want to put into it would be the deciding factor. just my opinion ofc. Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/152954-1998-plymouth-neon-updates/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyNameIsNoob Posted March 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 The majority of the box and bracing is built w 2 layers of MDF, except the port and the 3rd baffle will be Baltic Birch (for the looks). I've never kerfed Birch so still learning n hopefully adding it over the MDF doesnt cause any issues, but i added 2 corner braces so it should be pretty strong I'd think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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