Justin.Obs Posted January 14, 2020 Report Share Posted January 14, 2020 I have a 1994 Chevy Silverado C1500. I replaced all the 4x6's, added an amp, with headunit. As of now I have the amp connected straight to the battery. My voltage on my dash is 13 volt area but turning on my headlights or blinkers drops the voltage to 12. I have a factory alternator for the mean time. I am looking into adding a secondary battery for installing 2 sundown audio subs. Could I connect both the amp for the speakers and amp for the subs, to the secondary battery or will that be too much of harm on the secondary battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asylum Posted January 14, 2020 Report Share Posted January 14, 2020 I would check the battery ground and make sure you look at Steve's big 3 wire upgrade for your truck also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted January 14, 2020 Report Share Posted January 14, 2020 Yes, you can run all amps off the second battery. It is how it should be done anyway imo. When you add a second battery you just increase your battery bank size. All the power is connected in series. As for your voltage drop i would suggest going over the entire electrical system. 1 amp power 4x6 speakers should drop the voltage that bad, sounds like a bad connection. Make sure you grounds are metal to metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin.Obs Posted January 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2020 I have 1/0 for the big 3 upgrade just haven't done it yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin.Obs Posted January 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2020 Okay sounds good bcbrassard. My ground is metal to metal and connected to the seat bolt, very thick and sturdy to the body. Thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted January 15, 2020 Report Share Posted January 15, 2020 5 hours ago, Justin.Obs said: I have 1/0 for the big 3 upgrade just haven't done it yet That will be necessary for the sub set. Get it done and see if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted January 15, 2020 Report Share Posted January 15, 2020 report back after the big 3 is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted January 15, 2020 Report Share Posted January 15, 2020 9 hours ago, Justin.Obs said: I have 1/0 for the big 3 upgrade just haven't done it yet These trucks have very shitty stock electrical . Blinkers drop voltage even. Make sure along with the big 3 u run a new 1/0 from battery to the fuse box under the hood. It will solve alot of grief , all I did ( before I did a complete upgrade ) in my gf Yukon was from battery to fuseblock and power was alot more stout, very good after complete upgrade. You HAVE to upgrade the alternator in these things, in a pickup I think stock alt is like 90amp. I u have access to other gm trucks, see if you can get one out of a suburban or van and the alts range from 115 to 130a...or one off a 2004 suburban is a 160a but u have to change the plug. 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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