Amplifier gets hot

[slowfkncar]

1 hour ago, DankMan said:

@slowfkncar I tested the ground to the amp and it marked 12.6 but my ground bolt just keeps turning and turning so I’m sure my ground is not fully stable. That amp has never went into thermal mode or anything I just blew the inline fuse when I turned it up and was pretty hot after

If you come across this issue again, test voltage under load and measure the difference from front to rear and/or from your amp ground to chassis ground.

 

Your ground just spins, that is a no go and should be the first thing you address before any further troubleshooting.

 

You can unscrew that aluminum fuel pump cover and check with a light to see if you have enough depth for a nut & bolt, you could also attempt to hold the nut through that hole while you bolt up your ground.

 

Moving to a 0 gauge ground on that setup would let you run a much longer ground, which means you could easily bolt to the frame and ground off your battery, plenty of options here but that spinning ground got to go ASAP.

[DankMan]

@slowfkncar yeah I figured that spinning bolt is an issue. Using the same ground should be fine than if I use a nut and bolt? I’m just waiting on my mechanic so I can give an update. Thanks bro you are the man 

[slowfkncar]

3 hours ago, DankMan said:

@slowfkncar yeah I figured that spinning bolt is an issue. Using the same ground should be fine than if I use a nut and bolt? I’m just waiting on my mechanic so I can give an update. Thanks bro you are the man 

What is that, some type of acura/Honda? If so the unibody framing is a few more inches to the left above that hump, do you have two 14mm or t50 torque bolts on the floor near the tail lights? That should be your bumper support which is fastened directly to the unibody support (frame). 

 

The only way your going to know if your ground location can carry the required current is by testing voltage under load and comparing it with a good known ground, but most of us skip that step and just bolt it to the chassis/frame because we already know it has enough density/surface area to carry the required current.

 

 

[slowfkncar]

Just to be clear, don't use the bumper support bolts.

 

If your going to hit it there, make a new hole & sand it, you could also wipe the finished hardware with petroleum jelly so that it will never rust/corrode.

[DankMan]

Yeah basically its a 99 Acura Rl

[1point21gigawatts]

I didn’t think of that. Wtf, I’m slippin.

 

@slowfkncar, thanks!

 

@DankMan, Yeah, use 0 gauge and and you can use longer grounds. But try your best to not exceed 2 feet on them 0 gauge grounds, 3 feet would be the max and pushing it. But the shorter, the better. And when I was saying ground the amp to the chassis I was talking about ground it to hard metal, the frame or the chassis, instead of grounding it to the negative terminal of the battery. It’s better like that. But yeah, since you can use longer runs with 0 gauge then ground to the frame or somewhere good on the chassis. Either way, dill holes and use nuts and bolts. That’s the best way to ground. I forgot about the same concept of thicker gauge wire for positive feed works for negative feed in certain situations. Man, I feel stupid, lol, smh. 

[slowfkncar]

4 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

I didn’t think of that. Wtf, I’m slippin.

 

@slowfkncar, thanks!

 

@DankMan, Yeah, use 0 gauge and and you can use longer grounds. But don’t exceed 2 feet on them 0 gauge grounds. And when I was saying ground the amp to the chassis I was talking about ground it to hard metal, the frame or the chassis, instead of grounding it to the negative terminal of the battery. It’s better like that. But yeah, since you can use longer runs with 0 gauge then ground to the frame or somewhere good on the chassis. Either way, dill holes and use nuts and bolts. That’s the best way to ground. I forgot about the same concept of thicker gauge wire for positive feed works for negative feed in certain situations. Man, I feel stupid, lol, smh. 

Yup, all dc circuits have the same principle of ohms law, yet only car audio uses short grounds. 

 

Know why?

[slowfkncar]

Also, if your playing a tone and your amp shows 13.8v but your grounding point shows 14.4, that would be a 4% drop through the cable which means your ground is insufficient.

 

 

[DankMan]

@1point21gigawatts the yellow circle wire is 0gauge from my positive battery under the hood. The 2 white circles go straight to the amp from that small battery there I will be upgrading that to 0 gauge once my reducers get here so that everything will be 0gauge. The orange circle is my ground so if I don’t connect it to the negative part of my battery where would I connect it to? If I am able to use a nut and bolt on that same ground area would that be fine? 

[1point21gigawatts]

18 minutes ago, DankMan said:

@1point21gigawatts the yellow circle wire is 0gauge from my positive battery under the hood. The 2 white circles go straight to the amp from that small battery there I will be upgrading that to 0 gauge once my reducers get here so that everything will be 0gauge. The orange circle is my ground so if I don’t connect it to the negative part of my battery where would I connect it to? If I am able to use a nut and bolt on that same ground area would that be fine? 

I still think that battery ground isn’t tight enough and weak, even though it’s a good spot that reads good voltage, thus a good ground, I don’t think that one screw is grounding it hard enough. I would add more screws. One to each side of the ring terminal. Honestly I would shorten it to where that white circle is and then ground the amp near that orange circle up front.