Jump to content

slowfkncar

Members
  • Posts

    1010
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by slowfkncar

  1. I used to have an older 12 with the black dust cap, not a bad sounding woofer, alpines type X actually reminded me of the way it sounded, maybe you could find someone with one of those? If your hunting for affordable sq woofers, take a listen to an idmax also.
  2. That sucks bro, remember what we talked about? I hoped you would have had a better experience. I'd just rebuild it back to stock with an nsv2 coil and shrink the enclosure until you hit 1.7 net.
  3. The way i seen it, the time on his smartphone doesn't mean shit, defensive body language & how is he going to talk about kindly reaching out to a company when he just recently put rockville on blast? It's easy to accidentally be a hypocrite when trying to cover your ass.
  4. You can attempt a firmware re-flash, if it still dont come back then the internal bluetooth chip probably crapped out. https://www2.jvckenwood.com/cs/ce/mm/firmware/2013/2013b/eng.html
  5. Check your wiring again, inspect your wire for corrosion ect,check every ring and make sure the crimps are locked tight, battery terminals clean & tight & make sure you used a clean thick spot for every ground, sand it down & use zinc washers, bolt it up with grade 8 hardware. If you are 100%positive everything is in perfect order than switch your ground locations, better yet where is everything grounded?
  6. fwiw, on music it's rare to blow two or more at one time,unless you run 5x rated or something so blowing one out of 4 does not mean the signal was clean. If it truly happened on low power its pretty much the amp sending a bad signal or the sub was defective to begin with, assuming you've got electrical and the proper enclosure.
  7. I don't remember the idmax having such a small coil, they seem to get pretty hot off 1500rms & now i know why.. Kind of disappointed with the v4's
  8. Just realised that, woofer fires piss me off lol. A small portion of my back seat just went up in flames because i wasnt able to pull over fast enough to put it out, im sure some of you guys can already guess the brand.
  9. If your ssf was all the way up with the sa-8's then that zv3 will KILL the lows compared to the 8's.
  10. Sure. Some amps dont necessarily have an accurate SSF value printed near the dial so just make sure you've got it correct by testing.
  11. Lol yeah thats not helping. Drop the ssf only enough that the woofer dont play too hard under tuning.
  12. that doesn't look bad at all, more port are would be nice but if you aren't getting port noise then eh whatever. Try playing a few songs that are tuned low and keep a good ear on it. If it starts to play lows better as it heats up then you just gotta let the soft parts loosen up. Same thing happens to me when i freshly recone zv3s, i peak above port tuning untill it loosens up lol
  13. Well those 4 8's are very simular in cone area vs a single 15. Also, not sure if your woofer is new but if it is then it will take some time for the soft parts to loosen up. Zv3's & nightshades are fucken stiff from the get go. Takes me about a few weeks to break in my fresh sundown recones and thats off 4500 each lol.
  14. Are you running at 1/2 or 2ohms? Possibly not enough power for that enclosure.
  15. From the xs pdf It is very important that proper charging techniques be used when charging AGM batteries. AGM batteries are designed for use with AGM battery chargers with a MAXIMUM output voltage of 2.4 volts per cell(14.4v for 12v batteries and 19.2v for 16v batteries). AT NO TIME during charging should the battery be subjected to more than 2.4 volts per cell. Voltage above this will cause the battery to “gas” and once oxygen is vented it cannot be restored. Maximum charge voltage 32f = 15.3v / 50f = 15v / 68f =14.8v / 77f = 14.7v / 86f = 14.5v / 104f = 14.3v
  16. Signal compression, the amplifier is still doing its job untill you hit hard clipping. As noted above, square waves have more energy vs a sine regardless of source however, you are much more likely to blow a speaker by clipping it with x2 the rated power vs clipping it at its rated power. Its like the old saying, all clipping is distortion but not all distortion is clipping. *No need to apologize, we are all here to better our engineering skills and for as long as I've been installing i still learn a thing or two at smd everytime. I appreciate everyone that's willing to teach/learn.
  17. I felt like it was more of a "which is more relevant" type question He said, clipping can damage speakers but why? Imho, it comes down to which is more likely to blow speakers, square waves or overpowering? I can't really blame square waves as plenty of electronic/modern music use it.
  18. #1 is irrelevant because it really depends on the amplitude of clipping, usually limited by the amplifier. #2, true - any speaker that is being powered properly or with headroom can easily be clipped into dangerous power levels mechanically & electrically.
  19. Well, since you dont have shit for electrical I'd say two ohms might work out for you. Just have the box built a tad on the larger side.
  20. Well your bc3500 has the potential to give the subs (Minimum RATED),after impedance rise,electrical efficiency & enclosure efficiency you probably have never given them minimum rated power. A bc5500 will surely be more suitable especially since you won't need to clip the signal to actually get them suckers moving,however if you do clip the signal at those power levels you will have to be very careful.
  21. First of all I wouldn't put a zv.3/zv.4 15 in a 4.5 cube box. The 18? Yes but not the 15. If you are planning on sticking with a 1.6k amp then you could do 3.2 cubes at 35hz for the 15 or 4.7 cubes @ 33 for the 18. I currently have the zv3 15 in a 3.5 cube @ 31hz box off a saz-2500 and I can bottom it out,I upgraded to a aq 3500.1 and it just turns the subs output into heat. Stick with sundowns recommended enclosure size and you will be happy. personally I would try the 18 because of the lack of output from the amp,efficiency should help a little with an 18 Edit* btw whatever box you go with dont forget your gonna need another cube or two for your port area if your doing a slot ported enclosure
  22. Sundown is true to there ratings however, you have to know what you are doing. I had a nightshade v1 15 in 5.8 gross 3.5 net tuned to 31hz, with just a saz 2500,248ah battery & 220amp alt, I was able to bottom out the sub at ANY frequency below 36hz while full tilt *edit (even at 31hz,I can hard bottom because of to big of an enclosure for that amount of power) . It sounds very crazy and because of the box size and tuning,power handling and output went out the window. Although at 29hz I can do a small hair trick before it hard bottoms. The rms ratings seem to be conservative while the driver is installed in the proper enclosure. Being an installer for 9 years,I can say it is extremely conservative when compared to (rockford t2/jl audio w7) WHICH means nothing if your gonna play subs near free air.
×
×
  • Create New...