Jump to content
Second Skin Audio

Sub Build for Hybrid


zskot75

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, so I understand how to build a sound system for "normal" cars. I just bought a 2020 honda accord hybrid, and based on my research from crutchfield, and other sources, they say my car can only handle a maximum of 350W-450W. The sub I bought before knowing this is the Focal 10" E25 KX 1. The RMS for it is 600W. I was wondering if I could do a battery upgrade to solve the issue with the XS Power D5100, or use a super cap of about 150F to create a big enough buffer from the stock batt to the sub. Current stock batt says max load is 200A; the D5100 has a max of 3100A. I'm waiting on parts before I install. My idea right now is to use a 6F cap to hold it off, but after researching into the car more I'm unsure if the 6F will be enough, or if it will even work. What do you all recommend? Batt upgrade? Super cap? Will the 6F be enough? Is the sub I chose too big for the system? Good note to keep in mind, supposedly my car has no alternator. It uses the generator to run all electrical including the electric motors at the wheels.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That doesn't have an alternator, it uses a DC/DC convertor like an electric vehicle.  I have no idea what the fuse is on that, my Nissan Leaf has 100 amp and has none of the issues with alternators when load hits.  Efficiency is going to be the most important thing about getting loud with the limited 12v system. 

 

You may also want to check how the voltage is output.  On my Leaf, it is normally 12.8v unless certain accessories like seat heaters and windshield wipers get activated or it is charging from the wall, then it kicks up to 14.4v.  There may also be sensors on the battery that prevent the battery to ground "big 3" upgrade.  

 

While I did upgrade my battery to AGM of the same size, it didn't seem to change anything and I mostly did it because it was a 7 year old OEM.  Between my R2-500x1 and T400-4, the voltage never drops even through sustained bass heavy tracks.  Provided you don't go over the amperage that DC/DC convertor can handle, you shouldn't have to many issues.  If your manual has something about connecting accessories like DC/AC convertors to your battery, that may mention limits if you want to try pushing past the 350-450w range.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

@Phuzun

Huh, that is interesting to hear. Your leaf is all electric though right? Wouldn't that consume a ton of power?

 

@Gregs1027

I ended up pulling the sub out. At that time I worked an hour away, and the mpg was key to me. That's why I bought the car in the first place. When I put the sub in with the 6 F cap, the engines would never shut off and come on like how it does when you're coasting on the freeway. The engine stayed on consistently because I kept drawing power from engine for the sub. Mpg went from 50 down to 34. Basically turned into a regular accord lol I gave up on the project, but if there is a way to push past the 450w limit and have an external generator or something to give it more boost in power to make everything work, I would definitely revisit the idea.

 

Another key note is, my car has life time warranty, so long as I'm the sole owner. I got a little anxious thinking about if something goes wrong on the electrical aspect because I pushed the limit to far, then I'd probably lose the warranty. Like I said though, if there is a way to push past this safely, I would so be down to look into it again. I suffer everyday with the stock "AMPLIFIED 9 SPEAKER SYSTEM" they boasted in its specs, when my project car has an amazing system in it that performs a million times better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
On 6/12/2021 at 5:47 PM, zskot75 said:

@Phuzun

Huh, that is interesting to hear. Your leaf is all electric though right? Wouldn't that consume a ton of power?

 

 

Possibly 3 miles every hour.  Nothing noticable.  Sadly, that car was in an accident and totaled.  Got my amp rack and sub out to use in my new vehicle.  Got a Rav4 hybrid, Fi N.7 front doors and audiofrog gs25 in dash.  Minidsp 8x12v2 (first time with any dsp, this is great) into the rockford T400-4 and a T1000x5ad. 

 

Was able to simply grab the full range signal off the front dash speaker into a harness, then ran speaker wire to the new speakers.  Front dash speaker also feeds the front doors on the factory wiring, and the right dash speaker also includes the audio for vehicle features (all retained).  Rear doors have a connector in the boot, so I'll need to do a t-harness into the factory wire somewhere, since I'd like to not cut anything.  This headunit will do 192khz 2ch in lossless and android auto, so not horrible since that is staying stock. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What are you driving those N.7's off of? Just the head unit? 

How do they sound? I was inches away from ordering those, in my cart and everything, I just never pulled the trigger and went a different direction. I'm really curious about those though

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bridged from the 4 channels on t1000x5ad for the front ones.  Mounted with 1/2" birch ply for a bracket and rivnuts to the factory location. I'm really happy with them and would recommend them.  They sound great using 55hz LR-24db high pass.  Haven't decided where I'll keep the lowpass yet, just did 500hz since I knew the Audiofrogs can play to that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 308 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...