ItalianStallion13 Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 Hello all, recently switched amps and subwoofers and lost all bass. Previous setup was 1 Skar 10" prebuilt ported at 1ohm and it sounded great. Wanted to step it up so I bought the Skar SKV2-2500.1D 2500W amp with 2 EVL-12 12 inch Subwoofers DVC 4 ohm. Put them in a Sound Ordnance dual ported enclosure and heavy as it was got it into my 2020 corolla hybrid trunk. Have a pre wired LOC that plugs and plays from back of the stock HU. Remote wire ran to amp, and RCAs ran as well. Power wire is 4ga and runs battery to fuse to NVX 1.0 Farad CAP, then to amp. Amp is grounded to area behind rear seats as well and the CAP, both grounds shinny shinny metal. Subs show 2 ohm at each terminal of the box. Ran each to the separate speaker outputs on the amp to get the 1 ohm. With zero tuning to the amp subwoofer is felt barely with hand on cone. Maxed the gain just to see and not much difference. Turned the gain all the way back down and started trouble shooting. Took the CAP out of the equation and hooked amp straight to power wire and same result. Ran new RCA cables to LOC and still the same. Used old 10" prebuilt sub and it didn't move as well. I don't understand what is wrong. I am in no NO means a professional installer just trying this stuff out in my garage but this is driving me insane. I was reading about in phase and out of phase but my subs don't really move like they are TRYING to make a sound they just sound super super low. I will post pics of the install as soon as I can if yall would want to see. I'm about to drive it to a damn professional to fix it! hahaha But I am the type that wants to know whats wrong and fix it. Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 What are your settings on the amp and did you use the same LOC on your last setup? Also you could test with a digital multimeter and make sure you're getting plenty of power to the amp, and make sure enough power is going through the RCA's to the amp 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItalianStallion13 Posted February 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 23 minutes ago, Dafaseles said: What are your settings on the amp and did you use the same LOC on your last setup? Also you could test with a digital multimeter and make sure you're getting plenty of power to the amp, and make sure enough power is going through the RCA's to the amp Setting on the amp are bottomed out. Same LOC as last sub. I have a cheap MM is there a way to test without having to run all the way to the battery? My MM has the cables perm connected to it. Also RCAs... do I put a lead to the jacket and one to the post?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 To test the RCA's, put a node on the center post and one on that outer ring around the post. It won't be a huge amount of voltage, but just to verify it's getting to the amp. Then just test the power cable by just the positive node on the copper, and the other on wherever your amp is grounded, or just a good ground. If your voltage is dropping quickly, the amplifier could be going into protect. By all settings are bottomed out, does that mean you have your low pass filter set to 35 hz? 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItalianStallion13 Posted February 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 8 minutes ago, Dafaseles said: To test the RCA's, put a node on the center post and one on that outer ring around the post. It won't be a huge amount of voltage, but just to verify it's getting to the amp. Then just test the power cable by just the positive node on the copper, and the other on wherever your amp is grounded, or just a good ground. If your voltage is dropping quickly, the amplifier could be going into protect. By all settings are bottomed out, does that mean you have your low pass filter set to 35 hz? Ok I will check the voltage. What should it be at to be good? The batt cap is showing 12 when off and 14.2 when on if I remember right. Yes Gain 6, Sub 10, Bass 0, LPF 35, Phase 0. And Output Master. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 14 is where it's supposed to be. It's your low pass filter. What that does is not let notes above the setting pass through. Set it to about 80 hz. And your subsonic filter, set it to half an octave below the tuning of your port. Or if you don't know it, set it to 24 or 25 or something like that. Most music doesn't even play that low in actuality. But that should keep your equipment pretty safe. 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItalianStallion13 Posted February 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 6 minutes ago, Dafaseles said: 14 is where it's supposed to be. It's your low pass filter. What that does is not let notes above the setting pass through. Set it to about 80 hz. And your subsonic filter, set it to half an octave below the tuning of your port. Or if you don't know it, set it to 24 or 25 or something like that. Most music doesn't even play that low in actuality. But that should keep your equipment pretty safe. Awesome thanks I will try! Box is set to 34hz I believe. Should I also try to adjust the LOC?? I noticed it has tuning holes but havent found any info on how to tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 I would try and download the user manual for that specific line out converter. That should point you in the right direction for those settings. 34÷2=17 (one whole octave) 17÷2=8.5 (let's just call it 8 ) 17+8=25 hz (half an octave below port tuning) Let me know if that helps you out 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItalianStallion13 Posted February 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 Ok sooooo same result lol. Not moving subs at all so I decided to take pics. Yes almost all my wire is red lol you work with what ya got. Red wire from top left is Battery to bat cap, Red wire to split is Ground. 0ga down to 2 4ga, 1 to amp ground and 1 to cap ground. Black wire from pos cap term is power to amp. I did notice that while the stereo is running the batt cap display turns off... So maybe its not sending enough power to the amp... OR the amp isnt pushing enough to use the cap. IDK. lol Display was at 12.5 with car off idk why the 1 didn't show up in the pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted February 19, 2021 Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 So, when the bass hits, the cap turns off? 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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