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Skar RP-800.1D


Ruby
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So I have a Skar SDR-1X12D2 in a loaded enclosure hooked up to a RP-800.1D using the Skar 4 Gauge amp kit, with a 100amp in-line Fuse. I played it for about 30 minutes, gain turned all the way down, no LPF, no Subsonic or Bass EQ, and bass knob about a quarter of a turn (havent gotten it tuned yet). The sub stopped playing, and amp still had power. After a couple of hours I disconnected my battery, unhooked the amp and opened it up to see if it was messed up, looked fine so I put the cover back on and went and hooked it up again. Went to connect my battery again, and the fuse popped. I have a proper ground on my amp, Stainless Selftapper on an unpainted surface, close to a weld, with good metal. I wasnt playing music loud, about my normal volume, with just slightly more bass than usual. I do not know what happened. I'm going to get a new fuse, and put it in, and then see if the sub will play, I'm really concerned that the amp is done for, the sub feels fine. All wires were still connected well, I checked them after the sub stopped playing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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You should of took the fuse out before connecting the amp. You probably touched some metal on the amp near that terminal when you were plugging that wire in to be secured while that wire was live and messed that amp up. A gain has nothing to do with rms output. It is how you tune your amp to match the rca signal of your head unit or line out converter if you are using a factory head unit. Buy a dd1 to tune your new amp you are gonna have to buy and then remember when you plug or unplug your amp, make sure the fuse is out so the wire isn’t live. Now if you want to be cheap and not tune your amp correctly then no matter the rms you are putting to any type of subwoofer, if the signal is distorted then your subwoofer would stop working and you would have to buy another subwoofer. So honestly, a distortion detector pays for itself and then saves you money on your future car audio builds.
https://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-distortion-detector-dd-36.html

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:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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I have an aftermarket head unit and I’m going to buy a new fuse. I’m just hoping the amp still works because I doubt Skar will warranty it. I don’t have the money to get a new amp, so if the amp is dead, I guess I’ll probably never post on here again. 

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The amp was hooked up, before the battery was connected again. Amp hasn’t moved from the mounting location. The power light was on before I shut car off, after the sub stopped playing. I know enough about car audio to not do something stupid, or at least I think, but I do take all necessary precautions.

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It could just be the fuse. but that picture you posted in that other thread you posted looked like you burnt something where that positive battery feed is at in that amp. But you need a new fuse anyways, buy a 150 amp fuse and see what happens.

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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I get off of work at 5 and all the car audio shops near my work and home close at 5 aswell. I’ll try to leave early and get one. I’d like to check this issue as soon as possible, since I installed the system yesterday, and I’m having issues less than 24 hours after.

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And don’t half step in car audio. It would be best to buy a dd1 too or you are gonna wast more than the $189 that dd1 costs to buy new gear because of a clipped signal because of an amps gain being set incorrectly. And about that fuse, I said 150 amp fuse just in case you go bigger because that wire can pass more than 100 amps. Buying the biggest wire fuse is the smartest thing because you would never have to get another fuse unless you pop it making sparks or something. A bigger fuse doesn’t hurt nor change current draw. It just protects better.

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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Bestbuy has kicker fuses, and they sell them in a 2 pack. They currently have the 200amp fuse 2 pack in stock at the one near me. I’m trying to do this all at a budget, I spent $350 on the sub, amp and wire kit. I don’t have the money for the DD-1. Wish I did because I would have bought it and anything else that would help.

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