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so i've been fighting any combination of static, buzz, and alternator whine for almost 2 years in my system. it's worse on a bluetooth connection, and least on a USB drive source. here's what i've tried -
 

  1. RCA's are shielded and on the passenger side of the car. they've also been replaced.
  2. Power is down the driver's side, along with remote.
  3. Optima red top is main battery, less than 2 years old. Battery cables and terminals replaced.
  4. Head unit has been replaced, equalizer has been added, stand alone constant straight to the battery (fused of course) supplies power to these two, and a dedicated ground to under a seat bolt.
  5. Amplifiers have been replaced. started with el cheapo duals, now have RF prime amps, r500x1d for 2 10"s and r250x4 for 2 6x9's and 2 6.5's. all rockford fosgate as well.
  6. Gains are matched with multimeter.
  7. Speaker wires are all aftermarket, no breaks or shorts to be found.
  8. High amp alternator was installed, Big 4 completed, second battery installed in trunk, all with proper fusing. 
  9. All grounds have been cleaned, copper fittings, nuts and bolts through paint free steel to the core support under the hood and the rear seat support in the rear.
  10. Grounds for rear battery and both amps go to the same, paint scraped, hole drilled, nut and bolted connection on the back of the rear seat support.
  11. Ground loop isolators made zero change.
     

I'm hoping someone has run into a similar situation and found something i've overlooked. it gets really annoying sitting for an hour on the way to work and hearing the whine or crackle, buzz, static and cell phone interference coming through the speakers. thanks in advance! 

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8 hours ago, Dafaseles said:

Have you rechecked the ground to your head unit? I've read someone's that's the culprit

yeah. i even ran a brand new dedicated ground for that and the eq. 4 awg from a front seat bolt under the carpet to a distro block where they both meet it.

 

thanks for your input though!

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If it was mine I would use an ohmmeter to check continuity / quality of the ground connection to every component. ie, place one probe on the ground terminal of the amp and the other on the negative terminal of the battery and check the ohm value. Keep moving the probes around the system and see if any segments have higher-than-expected values. Test between your grounding points to the extent possible (your probes may not reach from the aux battery to the engine block for example, but do the best you can).

 

Check that the antenna wire isn't shorted to ground somewhere. Disconnect the antenna if you don't use it. If your vehicle has any aftermarket electronics installed, check the integrity of the wiring on those as well. Remote starters, security systems, inverters, etc.

 

If you've ruled out all electrical problems look for a source of RF interference. Car alarm, remote starter, wifi access point, emergency assistance module. RF interference can also come from damaged or malfunctioning electronics. Have your alternator inspected and tested. Likewise with the ECU and other modules in the vehicle. If these get cracked or damaged they can spew RF.

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