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Need a DSP


djbeats

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I am slowly putting a system together with more emphasis on sound quality for my 2019 ram 1500.  The plan is to put a 3-way 4-ohm component set up front, new 6x9 or 6.5 rear door speakers and a 10 inch ssa demon sub under the back seat all with the stock head unit.  I have a crescendo amp for the sub and would like to power the remaining speakers with one amplifier.  Currently I am concerned with getting the sub in and would like to use a DSP to get the signal from the stock head unit to the sub and speakers (future).  How many RCA outputs do I need?  Also, any recommendations on a DSP?

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If you are going to move up to a DSP and an emphasis on SQ, it might be worth considering going with a fully active setup (meaning you are driving every speaker with it's own amplifier channel).

 

So that would mean you need a DSP with 10 output channels:

  - 6 Channels for the active front 3-way component set

  - 2 Channels for the rear doors

  - 2 Channels for the sub amp

 

AudioControl has the DM-810 that has a strong reputation.   It would allow you to really dial in the sound stage.  To get the full advantage, you will need access to an RTA setup, but it's worth it.

 

That leaves you needing 8 channels of amplification for the front stage (so 2 more 4 channel amps).

 

Another option would be something like the JL Audio VX800/8i - it's an 8-channel amp that has an integrated DSP.  It would allow you to do all your time alignment and tuning and provides a set of pre-amp outs for your sub amp.

 

Hope this helps!

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Thanks dude.  I was thinking about going full active ... its going to have to wait for a later date.  Dont want to spend the money on more amplifiers and may not be able to fit three amplifiers.  So if I dont go full active then I will need 6 or 8 outputs?  I have seen the amp/dsp combos and I would like to keep the dsp separate from the amps to allow more flexibility.  I am familiar with the audiocontrol dm-810 and the 608.  Any other good dsp's out there?

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19 minutes ago, djbeats said:

Thanks dude.  I was thinking about going full active ... its going to have to wait for a later date.  Dont want to spend the money on more amplifiers and may not be able to fit three amplifiers.  So if I dont go full active then I will need 6 or 8 outputs?  I have seen the amp/dsp combos and I would like to keep the dsp separate from the amps to allow more flexibility.  I am familiar with the audiocontrol dm-810 and the 608.  Any other good dsp's out there?

Sure thing!  If you you go passive up front with a 3-way crossover, you can get away with a DSP with 6 outputs (2 for the front, 2 for the rear doors and 2 for the subs).

 

Helix and Zapco DSPs are pretty popular in SQ competition cars, but they come with a pretty hefty price tag.  I've read a few threads where forum users here have tried the Dayton Audio DSP-408 from Parts Express.  The price is great, but everybody here I've chatted with have had problems with noise/alternator whine so I'd probably steer clear of that one (such a shame, if they took care of the noise problem, it would be an easy go-to for a reasonably priced DSP)

 

Rockford Fosgate has their 360.3, but it's not priced any better than the Audio Control processors.

 

Rockford also has their DSR1.

 

The DSR1 might be the way to go.  It's small, the price is "reasonable" and it has 8 channels of output, so if you decided to go full active in the front of the truck later you'll only need to add another amp.

 

The DSR1 is designed to use T-Harnesses to integrate with a bunch of different factory systems (which might be an option for you) but it can also act as a stand-alone DSP w/out T-Harnesses etc.  I've used 3 of these - 2 in Fords using the T-Harness integration and 1 on a Harley stereo build in stand-alone mode.  It can be a little bit of a PITA to do the initial setup when using the factory integration side, you just have to carefully follow the order of firmware and software updates in the instructions, but once it's set up it's flawless.  I remember it being a lot less of a PITA to set it up in stand-alone mode on the bike.

 

I'm sure there are other DSP options out there, if you find one that looks interesting let us know and hopefully somebody here will have had some hands-on with them.

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On 6/4/2021 at 11:38 AM, Arthur79 said:

Sure thing!  If you you go passive up front with a 3-way crossover, you can get away with a DSP with 6 outputs (2 for the front, 2 for the rear doors and 2 for the subs).

 

Helix and Zapco DSPs are pretty popular in SQ competition cars, but they come with a pretty hefty price tag.  I've read a few threads where forum users here have tried the Dayton Audio DSP-408 from Parts Express.  The price is great, but everybody here I've chatted with have had problems with noise/alternator whine so I'd probably steer clear of that one (such a shame, if they took care of the noise problem, it would be an easy go-to for a reasonably priced DSP)

 

Rockford Fosgate has their 360.3, but it's not priced any better than the Audio Control processors.

 

Rockford also has their DSR1.

 

The DSR1 might be the way to go.  It's small, the price is "reasonable" and it has 8 channels of output, so if you decided to go full active in the front of the truck later you'll only need to add another amp.

 

The DSR1 is designed to use T-Harnesses to integrate with a bunch of different factory systems (which might be an option for you) but it can also act as a stand-alone DSP w/out T-Harnesses etc.  I've used 3 of these - 2 in Fords using the T-Harness integration and 1 on a Harley stereo build in stand-alone mode.  It can be a little bit of a PITA to do the initial setup when using the factory integration side, you just have to carefully follow the order of firmware and software updates in the instructions, but once it's set up it's flawless.  I remember it being a lot less of a PITA to set it up in stand-alone mode on the bike.

 

I'm sure there are other DSP options out there, if you find one that looks interesting let us know and hopefully somebody here will have had some hands-on with them.

I am glad you mentioned the Dayton dsp-408 … I was looking at possibly getting one but it’s so much cheaper than any other dsp I was on the fence.  Definitely not going to get it now.

 

the zapco dsp is pretty sweet.  For an extra $100 over the audio control dm-810 seems worth it.

 

Is the fosgate DSR1 plug and play?  I really don’t want to cut wires.  Also, I want to keep all the factory chimes and dings.  I know the speaker making the chime might change but I am ok with that.  How is the equalizer and everything on the DSR1?

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2 hours ago, djbeats said:

I am glad you mentioned the Dayton dsp-408 … I was looking at possibly getting one but it’s so much cheaper than any other dsp I was on the fence.  Definitely not going to get it now.

 

the zapco dsp is pretty sweet.  For an extra $100 over the audio control dm-810 seems worth it.

 

Is the fosgate DSR1 plug and play?  I really don’t want to cut wires.  Also, I want to keep all the factory chimes and dings.  I know the speaker making the chime might change but I am ok with that.  How is the equalizer and everything on the DSR1?

 

The DSR1 can be plug and play (if you own a vehicle it's compatible with) or it can be stand alone.  Here is a link to several of the iDatalink harnesses, the HRN-AR-CH2 says select 2008-up Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep and Ram vehicles, so that might cover your truck:

https://www.crutchfield.com/g_370750/Factory-System-Upgrade-Cables.html?tp=49909&pg=1

 

In the 2 Fords I used the DSR1 with, I used the dFO2 harness and didn't have to cut any wire.  The chimes etc were retained, but they weren't as loud.

 

As far as the EQ and other features, it's not going to be as advanced/refined as the Zapco, but it has per-channel gain/x-over/ 31 band EQ and a Q setting.  It has an Apple iOS and Android app, I've found that iOS app on an iPad works the best for me, but the Android app may have gotten better since the last time I set one up.

 

Here's a picture of several of the settings screens look like:

 

1806326294_DSR1settings.thumb.png.a865a6f751af2e536ed923c13b4555f9.png

 

If there is a T-harness for your truck, it might be the easiest way to go.  It's also small enough that it can easily fit behind the dash or tucked behind a trim panel.

 

 

 

 

 

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