chow8400 Posted October 22, 2021 Report Share Posted October 22, 2021 Hi Everyone. I decided to upgrade my audio system in a Lexus IS250 back in November 2020. My gear to date includes the following: 2 Skar EVLs (12") @ 2ohm (wired to 1ohm) 2 Rockford Fosgates T1000-1bdcp 4 Deafbounce Arnolds (Latest) 1 Hifonics Brutus 1600w (Being replaced with a Rockford Fosgate T1000 4ad) 4 Skar Pro Tweeters (Bullet) 1 Hifonics Brutus 1000w (Being replaced with a Rockford Fosgate T400-4) 1 Skar Pro Audio 8" (NotConnected - Will replace using a single midbass from Deafbounce) 1 JL Audio Twk-88 and Fix-86 Yep, all electricals upgraded (Mechmann Alternator), XS D3400 Battery, 1/0 and 4/0 Gauge Wiring, Distribution Blocks and Stinger Bypass (Thanks Steve)... Enclosure is roughly 3.125cu.ft. @ 35hz using 3/4 MDF. No modifications or alterations to the body of the car exist. Anyways, my last SPL score is 140.2db @38hz and I haven't done dampening (secondskin being considered for the entire car). I would like to hit 145db and believe it is possible. I would like to do some changes to my wiring and DSP as the first step towards achieving this, so I would like to know if the following is wise... I may need a diagram uploaded, but will try to explain... From the Battery a single 1/0 gauge goes into a distribution block (6 way - Knuconceptz) . From there another goes into a Distribution block (1 to 2 Knuconceptz) for the subwoofer amps. The amps accept 4 gauge. I would like to eliminate the distribution blocks for the subwoofer amps and run individual 0 gauge (with reducers to 4 gauge) from the battery + terminal to each. The intention is to improve efficiency of the power input to the amps. Is this a good idea or bad, any suggestions? I anticipate opinions... and prepared to share additional details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted October 22, 2021 Report Share Posted October 22, 2021 I don't see anything wrong with running 1/0 straight from the battery to a 1/0 to 4 ga amp input reducer. I do have a question though, do you have a volt meter inside the car that will tell you real time voltage at the amplifier? Just curious what your voltage looks like while your slapping. 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chow8400 Posted October 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2021 44 minutes ago, Dafaseles said: I don't see anything wrong with running 1/0 straight from the battery to a 1/0 to 4 ga amp input reducer. I do have a question though, do you have a volt meter inside the car that will tell you real time voltage at the amplifier? Just curious what your voltage looks like while your slapping. Thanks. I do not have a volt meter in the car presently. Its on my list for sure to acquire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted October 22, 2021 Report Share Posted October 22, 2021 Yeah, all that power might be pushing it on an upgraded alternator and one battery. But if it is, I just think a second AGM in the back would be sufficient. No need to go super crazy 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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