Liljxthexripper Posted March 27, 2022 Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 already have box design and port calculated etc. only thing is for the front face, is 3/4 enough to hold one sub or should i use an inch and of what material. I need something that will sound best despite strength for a theatre sound lol. dont judge im making this happen, already have an sa12 as my home theatre sub and man. it makes watching movies like godzille versus kong sound like you are really in a theatre. so im custom building a 15 into 4 out of 8 cubes of a target 8 cube organizer. and i will be building the box along the interior of the outter 2 cubes so like this v cube walls thick outside walls ll l l ll ll l l ll < port will fire towards this thick wall and will be 6 inch 14 inch long aeroport ^ sub box built snug to interior fit (middle wall removed so box will have 4 cubes of space), the back wall will be flush with back of cube so the whole box will slide in when finished. the front wall will overhang the top bottom and sides for looks and will try to add a finish to match the cube itself so will look clean. so overall how i build the box will actually be dependent on the material i use. and or should i get a 1 1/2 inch thick front face and inlay the sub by half an inch to flush the mounting bracket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BumpedCX5 Posted March 27, 2022 Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 An inch would be fine. I use 3/4" so typically I just double it on the whatever baffle the sub is mounting to. If it's a smaller or going to see lower power 3/4" is fine (I use Baltic birch) to use. For a build like yours with a rather large front and rear baffle I'd likely go 1" front and back with some bracing. As far as countersinking the mount that's personal preference really. I think it looks cleaner myself so most subs I do have the driver recessed (in which case I go thicker on the baffle) or mounted from behind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liljxthexripper Posted March 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 3 minutes ago, BumpedCX5 said: gotcha thank you. in terms of bracing . should i brace beside the sub front to back on each side left and right, since my port will be on the bottom half of the box? it is overall a bigger box than ive dealt with. i definitely didnt want to double baffle for the wood grain on the sides since they will show on the front face. but i will do some more research on the birch, thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BumpedCX5 Posted March 27, 2022 Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 I would brace front to rear since they are the largest panels. You can do this project in MDF (it's cheaper than Baltic) and it'll work just as well. I like Baltic simply because it's really strong and great to work with. It's pricey though. My home theater subs were made from MDF and they've been just fine for years. Nothing wrong with either material just build according to there capabilities/limitations. Myself I wouldn't double the sides. Front and back for me. Honestly with good bracing you could get away with a single layer on the back. I like to overbuild though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liljxthexripper Posted March 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 2 hours ago, BumpedCX5 said: understood, thanks for all the info. i have 1 1/8th birch for the 2 sa 12s in my vehicle and single baffle holds up hella strong. there shouldnt be any issue if i mdf everything but the front baffle and use a wood grain on the front right? and i think i might put a cross behind the sub left and right and up and down and 2 braces beside the sub front to back out of 2x2 wood. i see people using rods or dowels, and then others using straight edges, i feel like the smooth rods wouldnt impede airflow but then i dont think the interior airflow would matter at all rather than just the way the port is right? i am going to double baffle the front, but only allow one baffle to hang out over the front to cover the faces of the other cubes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BumpedCX5 Posted March 28, 2022 Report Share Posted March 28, 2022 As long as your bracing doesn't impede airflow to the port you'll be fine. I round all hard edges on my braces regardless but I don't think you're going to notice it one way or another. I do it because I have the tools to do it easily. The stiffer the enclosure the better so if you can put more bracing while staying in spec for volume then more power to you. No issue using more than one type of material in the enclosure construction either. As long as everything is built solid you're golden 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liljxthexripper Posted March 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2022 17 hours ago, BumpedCX5 said: As long as your bracing doesn't impede airflow to the port you'll be fine. I round all hard edges on my braces regardless but I don't think you're going to notice it one way or another. I do it because I have the tools to do it easily. The stiffer the enclosure the better so if you can put more bracing while staying in spec for volume then more power to you. No issue using more than one type of material in the enclosure construction either. As long as everything is built solid you're golden 👍 sounds good, im actually thinking of double baffling 1/2inch all the way around. a little more work but will overall be stronger and just doing two braces front to back. i realized my box will be bigger than planned actually measuring the cube storage but that should be extra stiff and i will just do a quarter inch inlay for the sub on a 3/4 outer panel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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