Deaf bonce SA302-12" subwoofer realistic RMS handling?

[Urkelpurple]

Hey guys, not necessarily new to having a custom car stereo system, but just upgraded my current set up! 

Original system is a sealed center console box with 2 JL audio 12w7' on a JL 1200/v3. I just added 2 deaf bonce SA302 12"s in a 4cuft ported box from Gatley audio. I am running a deaf bonce AAB-4900.1D  at 1 ohm.  Good install with 1/0 power and a limitless lithium pro 30(30AH).  Stock 110amp alternator, it is within the recommended charging requirements. No lights dimming and when checked, the voltage drop was from 13.8 to 12.4 at max power( limitless is a beast)

 

My question is... Are these and other subs of this caliber underrated when it comes to power? everything is banging, but it seems like they are hardly moving and are technically 450 watts over RMS.  Gains are as good as I could get them without a DD1 or an Oscope( hardly clipps). 

 

This is kind of a test to see if I am going to pull the trigger on building a cut through (F150 crew cab) or build a wall in place of the  back seat. 

[Joe X]

You don't say what alternator you have, you setup your gains incorrectly, couldn't get the AH of that battery, you don't say what gately box is the one you have......

 

My impression is that you have to let someone setup your system professionally before reaching any conclusions. I think that system may have some more in it than what you are currently getting.

[Urkelpurple]

Thanks for your response, I have edited the post to reflect the question you brought up.  I will probably purchase a DD1+ as I think I am going to ve spending much more time and money in this hobby! 

[Joe X]

I am covering a lot in one post so bear with me pls:

 

1) If the gately enclosure you have is the one with 58 square inches of port area, that's ok

 

2) As for the gains bear in mind that you also have know the clipping level of your head unit which also needs to be measured, not only the amps.

 

3) You don't mention the big 3, you need that upgrade as well. If your amp is not grounded to battery directly (best) it's a critical upgrade you need to complete.

 

4) For the current draw of that amp your electrical system should be about 250A alternator and 40Ah of total battery capacity, and that's only for music, Although these are somewhat generic calculations, it gives you an idea of how low your electrical system is right now.

 

5) if you are wired to 1 ohm means that your subs are D1 and you wired them coils in series and subs in parallel or coils in parallel and subs in series, D2 subs cannot be wired to 1 ohm. Wire should be AWG8.

 

6) power wiring  is ok at 1/0 as long as it is OFC. The quality of your connections is as important as the quality of the wire so recheck everything.

 

7) you should get a clamp and a multimeter to see how much acuial power the amp is demanding, it's a great way to know what is to blame for you not getting the full performance from your system.

 

Hopefully that's enough information for you to make a full check.

 

Also although manufacturer recommended box specs will  usually do fine in some cases custom specs can provide increased performance, I don't have that sub in my database so I will seek to enter it when I have the time.

 

 

 

[nauc]

did you set your gain like this, if so, what was your target voltage?  test tones are at the very bottom...

 

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204374120-Amplifier-Level-Setting-Guide