Ecohostile Posted November 10, 2023 Author Report Posted November 10, 2023 Thank You Everyone for the feedback! First, here's a couple of pictures of some cardboard boxes to test RealWorld size. This one wasn't going to work. Too deep and took up too much of my trunk. The wedge on the other hand... This allows me to still use my trunk. This is the biggest of the wedge boxes I previously modeled. Coming in at 3.94 CuFT before displacement or port. See next post for some math.
Ecohostile Posted November 10, 2023 Author Report Posted November 10, 2023 So after a little modeling, Here are the specs. 32Hz Tuning. 2.75 CuFt NET (after Displacement, Port, and Bracing) 41.42 SqIn of Port Area 3/4" Material (Still Deciding between Birch and MDF) Double Baffle Braced (Looking for feedback here) Main Issue I'm worried about - I have 3 1/4" between the port and the right wall of the car. Is this something to be concerned about?
Joe X Posted November 10, 2023 Report Posted November 10, 2023 Two things, not clear on how much clearance you have for the port but is about as much as it's width what it needs also the leftmost sub is in an potentially unloading position. Also nothing prevents you from putting your stuff over the box in the other design, is not like you lost your trunk like you say unless you were aiming the subs up but that's not the case. The slanted box would need grilles for the subs to avoid damage when you put stuff in the trunk. Lastly those subs are 1000W RMS each a 2500W amp is almost as underpowering them. Still congrats on you testing and planning nice effort.
Joe X Posted November 10, 2023 Report Posted November 10, 2023 Your other option is subs / port up close to the rear gate and use the trunk space between the box and the rear seats.
Ecohostile Posted November 10, 2023 Author Report Posted November 10, 2023 Hmmm, Back to the drawing board then. I know the amp is slightly underrated for these subs, but I’ll probably never have them at full volume anyways, would it be better to run two then? I was thinking the extra cone area having 3 subs at ~800w a piece would be better than 2 subs at 1000-1200w a piece. also Williston dyno’d this amp at 2700w at 1ohm which would put it at about 900w per sub. not sure how close I’d get to that in a real world scenario but is that extra 100w per sub that big of a deal? I think the 2ohm dyno was ~2300w
Joe X Posted November 10, 2023 Report Posted November 10, 2023 If you wanted to run that amp two 10s was the thing to do, likely the same cone area. But if you now have 3 8s use them all they have pretty low cone area, you can upgrade to a SIA 3500 if the 2500 is lacking. 8s to me are only worth using in under seat boxes for extcab trucks.
Ecohostile Posted November 18, 2023 Author Report Posted November 18, 2023 Decided to go modular this time. Sticking with wedge. Port area is 14/28/42 to 32hz and box area is 1cu/2cu/3cu Here's a couple designs. No bracing because I didn't want to design it, but I would probably do something similar to my previous posts.
Ecohostile Posted November 18, 2023 Author Report Posted November 18, 2023 Decided to do some top mounts and I think I might have my answer. These boxes are using 14sq in of port per woofer, 1cu ft of box space, and 32hz tuning. But I think I have my design. Top mount to protect the subs, might even invert them to show off the motors. Any feedback is appreciated, please tell me what I'm forgetting. 
Joe X Posted November 18, 2023 Report Posted November 18, 2023 Thin port don't work at all check out the following thread:
Ecohostile Posted November 19, 2023 Author Report Posted November 19, 2023 I had a feeling that would be the case lol. Well I’m glad I’m knocking out all the wrong ways to build the box lol. I think I can modify the port to make it wider. Also, I’ve seen boxes where each sun has its own individual section which would essentially “widen” the port by a factor of three, with each sub having its own port/chamber. It would also help structurally with bracing. Maybe I’ll try that next
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