looking to buy Looking for two budget. Powerful 15s that will be capable of 1ohm

[jgi420]

21 minutes ago, Kyblack76 said:

Also,. google impedance (not box/enclosure) rise.  Google, read, and take some of that in.  I dont know if your going strickly for numbers in the lane, at one frequency, or if your want a daily ground pounder (sound like you want a ground pounder system) but, just looking at "this amplifier does this number at this load" is pretty useless in a daily driven audio rig. That said, it will help explain why your not seeing even remotely close to the power you think you are, or should be. Not to mention, that board/maker, most likely embellished the numbers. I do wish you the best of luck. Hell, just coming in and asking questions, and wanting to know and learn, ... you are already well ahead of most, and the curve. Cheers and best of luck. 

 

edit- also, remember, if your are looking for "large-ish" numbers. It takes power, to make power. No board on the planet can "make"  power on its own. 

Also,.. please. Please be very very carful, of who you are taking info in from please.  There is a TON of nonsense, and welp, straight bullshit out there. Do your own reading and learning mate. Sure take others info in, but be very very carful on what is out there. 

Yeah thanks man. I appreciate the support. I mean I clearly didn't pay attention when trying to set up a system. I did all the wiring correctly and got the aftermarket alternator and everything but I didn't realize What I already should have known about true power and the claims of it from different companies from the previous systems.

 

I seem to always overbuild my car's electrical which most of the time is unnecessary for the stuff I end up being stuck with because I don't follow through with due diligence. 

 

Beef up your electrical system then cheap out on amplifiers I don't know why I guess I try to be one step ahead of the game and over build everything for future upgrades. 

 

I appreciate the advice. I'm going to look for a better amp in the future when my budget allows me to.

 

Is the taramps smart 3  3000k amplifier any good? Would that be something to look into as far as budget friendly and enough power

[jgi420]

23 hours ago, Joe X said:

The Skar Audio RP 1500.1D 1500W RMS amp which has been tested to do rated power requires a 120A fuse.

 

So your amp simply does not do rated power at all just looking at the fuse it uses.

 

And the fact that your 60A fuse in the power line never blows just gives you an idea how little power you are actually running

 

looking at the math  Power = 120A x 13V  =  1560W or just above the power rating.

 

For 60A fuse:            Power = 60A  x 13V   =  780W which never blows so you not even that (you don't even need electrical upgrades at this power).

 

Factoring in amplifier efficiency at 60A you would be delivering about 300W to each driver but again not even that.

 

I am going to guess you are actually delivering 200W to each 1250W driver or barely moving.

 

If you are comfortable at that level you could just leave it like that but what needs to be done to get those subs moving is a new amp and an electrical to match, a cheap amp that does 2500W RMS is the D4S JP23 1.5 which is 299 and is ideal for systems with light electrical upgrades.

 

 

 

 

So if I were to go with a skar audio rp1500 I should get a lot more power than I'm receiving now?

 

Crazy how a company could charge $200 for bogus power at least give the consumer 700w rms It's like I'm not even getting that.

 

I guess I suppose I mean on the website of the company they don't even list a fuse size or mention RMS power. So you could kind of assume 1500 watt is peak power but it's like they don't even give you half that clearly says on the website 1500w RMS at one ohm 750 watt RMS at 2 ohm crazy inflation

Edited January 20 by jgi420

[jgi420]

On 1/19/2024 at 6:36 AM, Joe X said:

The Skar Audio RP 1500.1D 1500W RMS amp which has been tested to do rated power requires a 120A fuse.

 

So your amp simply does not do rated power at all just looking at the fuse it uses.

 

And the fact that your 60A fuse in the power line never blows just gives you an idea how little power you are actually running

 

looking at the math  Power = 120A x 13V  =  1560W or just above the power rating.

 

For 60A fuse:            Power = 60A  x 13V   =  780W which never blows so you not even that (you don't even need electrical upgrades at this power).

 

Factoring in amplifier efficiency at 60A you would be delivering about 300W to each driver but again not even that.

 

I am going to guess you are actually delivering 200W to each 1250W driver or barely moving.

 

If you are comfortable at that level you could just leave it like that but what needs to be done to get those subs moving is a new amp and an electrical to match, a cheap amp that does 2500W RMS is the D4S JP23 1.5 which is 299 and is ideal for systems with light electrical upgrades.

 

 

 

 

So what could be going on here? The dyno testing in a few videos they show the amplifier putting out wattage yet when I clamp the amp it doesn't seem like it is sending more than 30 amps to the amplifier Is it possible for an amplifier to display wattage numbers that don't coincide with amperage. Like how is it possible that an amp will put out say 1,000 watts but only draw 30 amps well going by somebody else's dyno anyways. 

Edited January 20 by jgi420

[Joe X]

5 hours ago, jgi420 said:

So if I were to go with a skar audio rp1500 I should get a lot more power than I'm receiving now?

 

Crazy how a company could charge $200 for bogus power at least give the consumer 700w rms It's like I'm not even getting that.

 

I guess I suppose I mean on the website of the company they don't even list a fuse size or mention RMS power. So you could kind of assume 1500 watt is peak power but it's like they don't even give you half that clearly says on the website 1500w RMS at one ohm 750 watt RMS at 2 ohm crazy inflation

 

It is recommended that you use an amplifier that provides RMS power at least the same RMS power of all your subs, in your case 2500W , if you like skar I would go at least for the RP 2000  and light electrical upgrades for your car. the RP2000 is a tried and true amp and at 220 is pretty cheap. generally speaking I would recommend Korean half bridge amps which can work fine on minimal electrical upgrades.

[jgi420]

7 minutes ago, Joe X said:

 

It is recommended that you use an amplifier that provides RMS power at least the same RMS power of all your subs, in your case 2500W , if you like skar I would go at least for the RP 2000  and light electrical upgrades for your car. the RP2000 is a tried and true amp and at 220 is pretty cheap. generally speaking I would recommend Korean half bridge amps which can work fine on minimal electrical upgrades.

I have already done several upgrades. I have an aftermarket alternator already. I've done the big three I shouldn't have to do anymore aside from adding a second battery.

 

I kind of figured out what the problem is. Looks like I am getting a rise of 22 23 ohms When I play music so the amplifier that I have can't possibly put out any power with a box rise like that I don't understand what's going on because I don't know anything about box rise I believe it's called when you measure the ohms of My speakers with no music playing and the power off. It displays the proper one ohm reading coming out of the box but  as soon as you start playing music it rises the 22 to 23 ohms how do I fix this?

Edited January 20 by jgi420

[Joe X]

You can forget about impedance rise, as long as you are not a competitor or you are not fine tuning an exotic type of enclosure, you just need to have a good working electrical system that is in the level of the amp you are using, good wiring correctly installed, a good amp that does the power it claims, and proper gain settings procedures, it is worth learning about that as well as owning a cheap little scope or a DD-1, if you can source 2K to your subs you will see a big jump in output and you will be pretty satisfied with the results.

[jgi420]

2 hours ago, Joe X said:

You can forget about impedance rise, as long as you are not a competitor or you are not fine tuning an exotic type of enclosure, you just need to have a good working electrical system that is in the level of the amp you are using, good wiring correctly installed, a good amp that does the power it claims, and proper gain settings procedures, it is worth learning about that as well as owning a cheap little scope or a DD-1, if you can source 2K to your subs you will see a big jump in output and you will be pretty satisfied with the results.

Okay man, good to know. I was starting to get a little concerned because you know, usually when the ohms increase the usable power is cut. 

 

So yeah, I think that's the general consensus. I don't have enough power in the first place coming out of the amplifier

 

I should easily be able to figure out something I will see what I can find my price range and install it

[Joe X]

Ok, try to pick an amp that has been tested with the amp dyno AD-1 to put the RMS power that is rated for. And try not to  go for full bridge amps unless you are willing to buy full electrical upgrades, go for half bridge amplifiers that will work on entry level electrical systems.

 

Also using a voltage gauge connected to the amp power terminals lets you monitor the quality of your power, voltage shouldn't dip a lot when you are playing loudly and your voltage should stay preferably in the 13-14V range for optimal amp operation.

[jgi420]

On 1/22/2024 at 12:25 AM, Joe X said:

Ok, try to pick an amp that has been tested with the amp dyno AD-1 to put the RMS power that is rated for. And try not to  go for full bridge amps unless you are willing to buy full electrical upgrades, go for half bridge amplifiers that will work on entry level electrical systems.

 

Also using a voltage gauge connected to the amp power terminals lets you monitor the quality of your power, voltage shouldn't dip a lot when you are playing loudly and your voltage should stay preferably in the 13-14V range for optimal amp operation.

I have a cheap clamp meter. I've tried it a few times. I have tried to measure the amps. I have used a voltmeter too. It seems like no matter what I do I don't get that high of a reading if any at all. On the clamp meter I was clamping the power wire going to the amp. Then I read somewhere you're supposed to clamp the positive wire of the speaker terminal coming off the amp so I try that did not see much of a reading doing that either. It was really odd It was like I saw only  five or six amps once again though I know nothing about clamp meters.

 

I just picked up a cheap one I don't know exactly what I'm supposed to be measuring to be honest I am not sure if what you want is a DC clamp meter and the problem is the  meter that I have only does AC?

 

Also when I ran the test I had the volume up about as high as I can go cleanly seemed like according to the math I might have been getting around 2ohms which clearly you're not going to see full power I would be getting less then what the box says which makes sense I did not consider this when purchasing the new amp. 

 

 So if any of my numbers are even correct and I did any math right hopefully I should still be able to get at least 500 watts to each subwoofer RMS

 

 

I'm pretty sure I have the right clamp meter. It's just a cheap one. It doesn't really say true RMS or anything just a hobo freight one clearly I didn't use test tones  I just played music we will have to see what happens when I install the new amp.

 

 Another guy he had a smart 3 amp 3k and from what his tests showed, it didn't pull much more than a little over 40 amps even with test tones playing so maybe I'm too concerned with amps will let everyone know how it goes with the new amp and see if I can do some more tests appropriately and figure out what the new setup is doing for power

 

Edited January 25 by jgi420

[Joe X]

Just use a voltage gauge connected to the amp power terminals to verify that you have a steady 13-14V, no other measurements. If your voltage is not steady and constantly dipping when the bass comes on you will very likely not be doing rated power.

 

I would recommend not to buy Tramps or any other of those full bridge full range Brazilian amps, just get a Korean made half bridge amp about 2000W RMS and for wiring use 0AWG OFC wiring.