Dotz0cat Posted August 6, 2024 Report Posted August 6, 2024 I am new to the world of car audio. My prior experiences with car audio up to around now can best be described as distortion. Either that or cars that you could hear for miles before they pass. I didn't want anything like that. I just wanted to add a sub to my trunk, to get some more bass and improve the sound quality of my car. This was a completely diy install using whatever I had laying around. I wanted to do it cheaply and well. (it wasn't fast) I like how it turned out. It does what I set out for it to do, play some sound. I figured now that I have it to where I want it, I'll share it here. (here being the best choice since I don't use reddit anymore, and tildes doesn't really have image embeding) This all started when I found the amplifier that I am using (dual xpe2700) at a yard sale. The guy was selling it for $20, I offered him $5 and he took it. It worked. I then converted a computer / home theater subwoofer to something that can be used with a car amplifier. I installed it, and ran everything myself. I ran it for a while, then set the gain up right with an o-scope. Then finally after some more time changed the clip connector I was using to a proper terminal cup. Here is a full zoomed out trunk shot. It really shows off how small this install is. Next up at the front, I have my main power connection. It's 10 awg TTHN. All loomed for protection. It's also fused with a 30 amp ANL fuse. Some people may have an issue with the fact that I used 10 gauge TTHN. For a system that "does" 150 Watts, that will never see more than half volume, I think 10 gauge is fine. For the TTHN part, it was a little stiff while running it, but not troublesome. The insulation is tough. Since I used stranded 10 gauge, it is way more flexible than the solid counterpart. On the inside I have my main wire ran under the trim. I also have my remote wire ran through there too. The remote is just tapped off of an accessory fuse from the fusebox. I loomed some of it as I had extra loom. If I had to do anything more, I would finish off the unloomed section by undoing those retaining clips. Next is my amp and sub. The amplifier is a dual xpe2700. Notice the duct tape as I had to correct the number that was on it. It originally said 400 watts. More like 50 watts per channel at 4 ohms. It can be bridged for 150 watts at 4 ohm. I am running it bridged. Does it make that much? Maybe on a blue moon in May on a Tuesday. The board that it is connected to is what was left over from making the back for the sub. I spray painted the board black and screwed the amp down to it. I ground off the tips of the screws. It is held down onto the subwoofer with velcro and felt pads. Next the subwoofer is the subwoofer from a klipsch promedia gmx-d 5.1 set. I had picked it up for free from an e-waste place. I didn't get the control pod that is required to run it. Since I didn't want to hack at it too much to get it to work without the control pod, I just had it collecting dust in storage. So after I picked up the amplifier, I decided why not just use it in my car. So I removed the internal amplifier from it and desoldered the subwoofer. I later cut a piece of plywood to cover up the back of it. I then used a small clip connector as the connector for it. The clips on it wasn't even crimped right. I also put in a bit of fiberglass for damping. I later found some proper terminal cups, but I had to wait as I didn't have the right size of a hole saw. After a few weeks of not having a hole saw, I just cut the hole for the terminal cup the hacky way. After the hole was cut and everything test fitted, I painted the back piece black. I held the terminal cup on with some old computer screws from my pint jar full of random screws. It looks way better than before. And most importantly makes sound. Here is what the sub looked like before I redid it with a terminal cup. Here are a few pictures I had from when I had it open to add the new terminal cup. Here is some more goodies from the install. I didn't want to go for an aftermarket headunit (yet), so I ran an loc. The loc I used may not be the best, but its far better than running speaker level inputs to the rcas, or trying to rig up a high level input connector. The loc is connected to the rear speakers using wire that I got out of some cat 5e. It was connected to the loc using a lineman splice then soldered and heat shrinked. It was then connected to the speaker wires using a military splice then soldered and insulated with electrical tape. After I had finished the install, I wondered why I wasn't getting that much bass. I later found out that the red striped wires on the loc are the negatives and not the positives. So I had to fix that. (tip: if you think a phasing issue is killing your bass, remove an rca, if you get more bass after that, then check the polarities on your loc to speaker connections. It can also be done with a fader, but not everyone has one) The rcas that I used, while not that important did recive some chatter back in the day, are stinger dream series triple shielded balanced ofc interconnects. I got them in a box of cables from someone. Install mess Focus on the speaker speaker wiring, and an attempt to show how uncomfortable that trunk is Focus on the rcas being connected to the amp, with the loc being somewhat in the background. I was having fun with the camera at this point. Overall, I am happy with this install. It does what I wanted it to do, add some sound to my ride. It doesn't have to be big or be fancy, have some fun with some audio. 1 Quote
Joe X Posted August 6, 2024 Report Posted August 6, 2024 Even some bass makes a big difference, congrats, if you are like many of us on here you will come back for more. 1 Quote
Loudsinglecab Posted April 27 Report Posted April 27 That is pretty much how I started bro welcome to the addiction ... looks good ! Quote
MEGADOPE Posted April 29 Report Posted April 29 Thats definitely the cheapest build ive ever seen , ive never heard of someone repurposing a computer sub for a car but if it works then it works! My advice is with something that small , if possible , just tuck it behind the drivers seat or even on the floor of the passengers seat. Years back i had a small pioneer sub that sounded ass in the back but then i got a longer speaker wire so it was portable in the cab and I could move it around at will if someone was getting into the passengers seat. Quote
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