treossi Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 i use all data at school (uti) it helps a lot when i have to fix something Quote Team sundownWESTCOASTSPL.COM we're throwing dbdrag events very soon visit the website for details Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISO Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 (edited) I'm thinking water pump issue. Edited July 7, 2008 by ISO Quote Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one. "Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go." Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. The Destruction of a person builds character. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosin Posted July 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 I'm thinking water pump issue. ^^^^^^^ Mr. Obvious here! J/K Man Quote Derp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISO Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 ^^^^^^^Mr. Obvious here! J/K Man Screw you buddy. Man thats what I get for only reading the first post. I already felt like a dumb ass after I posted then read that you already bought the shit to do the water pump. Quote Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one. "Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go." Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. The Destruction of a person builds character. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missinglink Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 Alright, I bought the water pump today and it has the gasket with it.putting a silicone sealant on it with the gasket will cause problems right? I might as well change the belt now, save time later. Well, under the motor mount bracket (where the pump is located) is where the leak is coming from, but I can't see exactly where its coming from. Anyways, when I get started on it tomorrow, change the belt, pump and flush the whole coolant system? Smart man. I would "reset the belt clock to zero" myself - I hate doing stuff twice. Gasket sealant is an old argument. Personally I dislike silicone in most places. It is too slippery, and does not bond to anything really well. It can allow the long skinny parts of the W/P gasket to slide out of the joint... If you need to use sealant, I would use either Permatex High-Tac, or a very thin coat of Permatex Aviation. Let either one dry for an hour or more. Put a thin coat on the block, and a thin coat on one side of the gasket. Once dry, you can stick the gasket on the block (snot to snot) and it will stay right where you want it. The most important part is making sure the sealing surface is clean & dry. Use a big towel to soak up all of the coolant that keeps dribbling out if you have to. Scrub the sealing surface on the block AND the new pump with a rag & carb cleaner. It is best to use a torque wrench on the bolts in that engine. You can make for a future leak by overtightening the W/P bolts. Depending on where you live, use only enough coolant to keep it from freezing in the winter, and NEVER more than 50%. Inspect all of your hoses while you have the system empty. If you see one that is "wet" on the end, it has a small leak. They fail inside, and the coolant wicks down the reinforcing fibers - and out the end. Replace any hose like that, or it will burst eventually. 'Link Quote missinglinkaudio The United States Marine Corps. When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight - even if "it" belongs to the base commander... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosin Posted July 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 Smart man. I would "reset the belt clock to zero" myself - I hate doing stuff twice.Gasket sealant is an old argument. Personally I dislike silicone in most places. It is too slippery, and does not bond to anything really well. It can allow the long skinny parts of the W/P gasket to slide out of the joint... If you need to use sealant, I would use either Permatex High-Tac, or a very thin coat of Permatex Aviation. Let either one dry for an hour or more. Put a thin coat on the block, and a thin coat on one side of the gasket. Once dry, you can stick the gasket on the block (snot to snot) and it will stay right where you want it. The most important part is making sure the sealing surface is clean & dry. Use a big towel to soak up all of the coolant that keeps dribbling out if you have to. Scrub the sealing surface on the block AND the new pump with a rag & carb cleaner. It is best to use a torque wrench on the bolts in that engine. You can make for a future leak by overtightening the W/P bolts. Depending on where you live, use only enough coolant to keep it from freezing in the winter, and NEVER more than 50%. Inspect all of your hoses while you have the system empty. If you see one that is "wet" on the end, it has a small leak. They fail inside, and the coolant wicks down the reinforcing fibers - and out the end. Replace any hose like that, or it will burst eventually. 'Link Thanks man. I got some of the Permatex High-Tac stuff today, Yeah the manual specifies the use of a torque wrench on the W/P bolts. I will use your advice and get started in a sec. Thanks alot man! Saved me from more problems down the road. Quote Derp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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