the everchanging avalon build, part 4?

[Brick2560]

I missed this up until now.. but +1 for ducky fabric, that'll get you some points around here.. *ominous glare at Chode*

[raytard]

friend of a friend has an 08 btl 18 im buying, my current box is about 3 cubes, i dont see a problem getting 7 or even 8 out of my trunk, even using 1in mdf. The sub is going to have to be mounted on some kind of slope because height is a bit of an issue, but its all doable. Im basically wondering, from experience if I should

a) sub back, slot port back

sub back, square port up through deck

c) which i kinda dont want to do because im always carrying people/stuff around, blowthrough and seal from trunk, with aero ports

dimensions will be up tomorrowish, im throwing a beefy powermaster or two in the spare tire well and the sub is getting two gto1400's strapped to it, 3krms

all around loud daily driver, not trying to post up numbers or anything, but two twelves are kinda getting outgrown at this point

[JMC0415]

Just went through the build. Looks awesome.

Gonna be good with some BTL.

[wL<3bass]

I would do sub back and port through the rear deck.

[raytard]

thats what i was considering, i'll do all the calculations once I get a chance.

the only thing i can think of, is should I leave room around the box, like some airspace, or would i be better off just building it to fill the available space? my seat has no rear backing and kind of acts like a big passive radiator. I have to measure this out and see how its going to fit in there, looks like I'm pulling theback seat out, cutting the sheet metal, and sliding it in like that if anything.

from experience, would it be fine with 3krms in a 7 cube box tuned low, like 30-32hz, or should I go for a smaller airspace to play it safe (5-6 cubes) I'm just thinking of that now that Im doing 50% over rms and dont want to recone this thing once it's in there

[raytard]

well i went out and measured everything, between wheel wells i have 38 inches x20 inches high by about 50 deep. Back seat slopes like 4-5 inches towards the front from top to bottom, and the back deck is like 18.5 deep. looks like i can kinda cut out some sheet metal and bow out the back seat to get the extra half an inch I need to get the box in and sub in the rear deck, I'll just do some work and make stuff happen, and relocate my 3rd brake light to the roof, velcro and metal strips ftw

so, by what i figure, a 20x38x20 box, with a 6x6x23 port on each side of the sub to keep stuff symetrical, maybe in the corenr of the box, I have to measure it out exactly when I get it all apart.

my results are saying right about 6 cubes, possibly a front to back allthread for bracing since its relatively small and going to be 1in, and tuned to 32.5 ish hertz. ports are gonna have to be L's around the bottom since the box is only 20 deep. Any recomendations as far as this all goes?

this also means i'm walling it off somewhat, hiding a new batt (big azz powermaster probably) and showing off the amps, and I have a trick up my sleeve I think you guys will LOVE as far as that goes, atleast if you dont like to see wires AND like to show off your amp, or adjust them without pulling off trim pieces.

[Aaron813]

Hey man just saw this thread I have a 96 avy if you have any questions just ask me ive been thru the whole car a few times. For your headunit your right there is no wiring kit I hardwired mine in ran new wire all thru out and new power and ground for the headunit. Cant wait to see the buil again if you got any questions feel free to ask away

[KAPONE.SS]

well i went out and measured everything, between wheel wells i have 38 inches x20 inches high by about 50 deep. Back seat slopes like 4-5 inches towards the front from top to bottom, and the back deck is like 18.5 deep. looks like i can kinda cut out some sheet metal and bow out the back seat to get the extra half an inch I need to get the box in and sub in the rear deck, I'll just do some work and make stuff happen, and relocate my 3rd brake light to the roof, velcro and metal strips ftw

so, by what i figure, a 20x38x20 box, with a 6x6x23 port on each side of the sub to keep stuff symetrical, maybe in the corenr of the box, I have to measure it out exactly when I get it all apart.

my results are saying right about 6 cubes, possibly a front to back allthread for bracing since its relatively small and going to be 1in, and tuned to 32.5 ish hertz. ports are gonna have to be L's around the bottom since the box is only 20 deep. Any recomendations as far as this all goes?

this also means i'm walling it off somewhat, hiding a new batt (big azz powermaster probably) and showing off the amps, and I have a trick up my sleeve I think you guys will LOVE as far as that goes, atleast if you dont like to see wires AND like to show off your amp, or adjust them without pulling off trim pieces.

I think That would be Good. Just make sure you can get into the rear deck either from inside the car or threw the trunk. On my car I had to squeeze it in from the cab. Other than that it is looking sweet. How you like jbl100.4

[raytard]

kapone, the gto1004 is a nice solid amp. For the price, I cant think of anything else with 150rmsx4 at 2 ohm that runs for friggin 6 hours full blast without overheating. Theres nothing wrong with any of these GTO amps other than the metal part of the rca can be pulled out if you use the tight monster cable rca's like I have, but i've been able to just stick them back in everytime so far.

as far as getting the sub in there, ill figure something out, worse case scenario, the box is getting built a little bit shallower and i'll find a way to jack it up and shim it so it sits at the right height.

this trunk has a torsion bar system to hold it up when it's open, and its all in the way ( 1 bar from each support arm, running straight across the rear deck)

I'm just going to unbolt it and have a floppy trunk for now, find some way to rig it so its not in the way, maybe a gas-shock system or flip/flop it, but thats all thoughts for summer, for now, its getting propped up with a broom handle

and thanks for the offer aaron, but between directechs, mel, and the fact that all the wiring is generic toyota other than the head unit, I have this car on lock, but do you happen to know the distance between the two rear seat clips on the top? i'm really hoping for 38+inches, otherwise I'm going to have to make a new bracket for it and probably bend it forward a bit.

[tegan14]

your avalon is looking good!! I got a 98 my self and saving up for some things to start doing projects. When you say wiring kit you mean the wiring harness for the headunit, cus if thats what your looking for they have on on crutchfield which worked great for me.