the everchanging avalon build, part 4?

[raytard]

well im not posting up a new thread to add to my car, so im just going to keep this here

short story: sold old subs, not ready for the new subs (cuz i needed myself an avic-f90 and the deal they offer to salespeople is ILL!)

have a vega!84 sitting next to me, untouched fresh off the shelf for 30$

t/s specs are ballin for a t-line, and going from 2 oversized 12's (theyre 13.5's by standard measure, the cone itself is 12, od of basket is like 14 7/8) and 1200 watts; I cant quit the bass cold turkey

so this is going in, invert mounted in a t-line so the basket is through that nice hole i cut in my rear deck for no apparant reason, front port is going through the armrest, tuned to the sub's Fs of 35hz, powered by whatever i can scrounge up that puts out between 150 and 200 watts (worse case i'll get like a bazooka cs150 or a magnum amp...gotta love the mtx below roadthunder junk)

tomorrow 07sonatasp.ed. is coming over, we're running some 0g in his car and installing his aq2200, and gutting my spare highs amp, sub amp, and subs. sometime later in the week im building and installing the box, luckily i have a tablesaw, workbench, and all the tools i'd ever need for woodworking in a 1.5 car heated garage, which is great considering its in the 20s and snowing

for the boring part, sub's t/s

Free-Air Resonance: fs 35 Hz

Total Q: Qts 0.323

Mechanical Q: Qms 4.56

Electrical Q: Qes 0.865

Compliance Volume: Vas 0.7 ft 3

Maximum Excursion: Xmax 1.20" (+ 0.60")

30.4 mm (+15.20 mm)

calculated sd- 37.69sqin (6.5 ceenter of surround across to other center, which is gay, this is supposed to be an 8, depth was 1.75, so i got 37.69 with some maths for cone area, im sure its high, so im going with 7x5.25 as the port size, 96in long for ~35hz tuning, u turn style

preliminary pics available if anyone wants it (the new woofer in all its 9 year old glory, my design for the box if anyone knows anything about t-lines and wants to correct it, noone here or on CA seems to know enough about them to even tell me if my length is calculated right, even with a 20$ paypal bounty for plans, but wtvr)

wood is in the shed, car is getting prepped tomorrow after work. pics if anyone has any intrest, or im just going to go back to what i did with my first half dozen installs and just not spend the extra time to take pictures.

[raytard]

well ive been hating no bass at all, and my old subs are basically sold, so i decided to build a t-line, but first, teardown pics! wooooohooooo

so it started one night, after 12 hours at work, it was friggin cold out to say the least...

pulled these out for starters, along with 2 out of three amps

was left with this:

its messy, i know, its in the process of being redone, thats why these pictures are here, so calm down

anyway, had an idea for a box, wanted to use my vintage cerwin vega VEGA!84 in a t-line, cuz why the hell not, right?

made a design, basically its ported through the armrest, u can see in the last pic, that white part is the back of the single piece of leather that separates the trunk and cabin, thats getting cut out, box is going in, sub is invert mounted where that cool port i cut in my deck before for no good reason is:

and now for the building....

[raytard]

for reference, when everything got moved around the power lines were resting on my rca's, very noticable alt whine, when i moved the lines forward and left and the rca's backwards and right, its completely gone. so for anyone who disbelieves that powerlines near signal lines causes noise, it definately 100% does.

so, rough plan for box:

realize, this is a temp test box, which is why its so damn ugly and shitty, it was 13 degrees out today, and i had to use some busted ebay mider saw to cut the wood (by busted i mean you have to physically spin the blade with your finger and then turn it on and hope the motor catches and keeps it going, otherwise it just sits there, buzzes, and blows fuses.) on the upside, all those rigid stuff was 119 @ home depot and is awesome for car audio (drill, 4in circular saw, flashlight, sawzall, 2 12v lithium batts, charger, and case, 119, i couldnt leave it... my titebond and woodscrew trip cost a bit more than usual...)

box plan:

yes, i know, its not 6 inches on the right side, its 5, i figured that out the hard way, o well

cut wood, titebond, new toys...

mocking up:

assembling:

45's!!!!:

keepin the area constant, you know how i do, and i didnt router the end for a reason, its a test box and im clueless as to t-line design, chances are this thing will be heating my house or a neat coffetable in a week or so

and before i slapped the top on:

right now its sitting in my room drying, it was in the garage for like 4 hours and the glue is still runny, 12 degrees apparantly isnt good for glue to harden..

sat or sun im cutting the seat, sliding it in, making a hole for the sub, and seeing what it does

idk if a t-line works if the sub isnt positioned at the end, i never really learned, i guess not since the resonant frequency of the box is unchanged, but idk how it works exactly, if this ends up sucking im just making a nice little 1 cube ported box for it

[Forevrbumpn]

good job on the dimensions... i was going to suggest before when you PMd me a few weeks back, to just do a phase line, lod the woofer inside the line, close to the port opening, but I wasnt sure how it would sound. My experiences with phase lines are 50/50

only would have reccomended it if you had $20 bucks to spend on wood

[Colin - STAPUFT]

I'm definitely tuned in. I have the 12" version of your 8- and if the 8"s parameters are anything like the 12, then the sub is a really good candidate for the t-line.... especially if you already had it!

[Nightshade]

Raytard, have you got the Kicker mids and highs yet? I know you aren't going to be disapointed with them. I have the RS65.2 comps in my doors off of a Cerwin Vega EXL400.4 and they sound amazing. I have one component in a vehicle that can play music in the 149's all day long and I can still hear the words very loud and clear. I miss some of the little sounds in music when I have the sub bass all the way up, but my point is that with as much as your going with you are gonna love the vocals and mids that those SS's put out. I was origionally gonna go with the new Alpine Type X comp, but I heard a set of the SS and also RS a while back and remembered how good they sounded. I found an awesome deal on the RS's so I had to go with them. The crossover on the comps is awesome to say the least. Top knotch quality components in the crossover network. I still may add a pair of the SS 8" midbass woofers if I don't end up running some of the Tang Bang 6 1/2's. Let me know how those work out for you and what kind of power they can take.

[raytard]

the highs are going to be my summer project, along with the subs, my next paycheck is going into a z15 preorder, and the rest of my pay is going to the bar fund=)

one of our shop's show cars has 2 sets of kicker ss's, which is why i started liking them, but they are very harsh IMO, im kinda leaning towards just doing 4 sets of pioneer d-series, i love the way they sound, and 4 sets with a few hundred watts should scream, but idk what im going to do, either snatch the last ss's we have on display, or get pioneers....

and Colin, yes, they are very close, the 8 is a bit better actually

http://english.gttrading.it/utilita/easyne.../files/vega.pdf if you lost your manual, shows 8, 10, and 12 specs

forever bumpin, would that phase line be something i could like patch up and try something else? see attatched pictures, first one is about how its going to be in my car, the second one is my guess as to wth u mean, cuz i cant quite rationalize what you mean, but it may just end up being better, i dont mind patching the box or whatever, this is basically an experiment before i throw something more conventional and much more insane in.

so: what i was planning:

and what i think you're trying to suggest:

it doesnt matter if this thing is basically running free air, i think its pretty much made for it, and im only giving it like 50-75% rms

[Red-navi-916]

looks good so far keep up the good work..

[raytard]

awah, dont have to be so kind

it looks like shit=) i mean, come on, i dropped the center piece and broke the end so i cut it short and made a spacer, see that sweet line of glue in the second pic?

t-lines just kinda grabbed my attention and i figured i needed to try one, worse case scenario i lose 20 bucks of supplies and maybe break a 30$ woofer, best case i have a new home theater sub

thanks though, and expect something much more fun to watch this summer, winter is all that boring hardwiring an avic-f90 in/maintenence/battery fund. all the cool stuff will happen around july

[raytard]

ok, so its all installed and heres some pics

figured i'd start with something nice, how i make a hole with my limited tools and such

basically, i mark my distance (8inches in this case, od of sub) on the edge of the box, get a straight edge and connect the oppisite ones so you get an X, drive a panhead screw into the center, and then use a tape measure with lock to set my distance (compensating for width of the screwhead and pencil ofcourse), with the pen set in the space against the tape measure and tape, and the metal notch at the end of the tape hooked on the screw, i trace a circle. Then cut it out with my shit jigsaw i need to get a new blade for soon

so, pic of how i do it:

and the result:

sorry im so hurt for pics, i've had it rough at work and its like 20 degrees out and i just wanted this done, 07sonatasp.ed helped me out with tearing it apart and prepping some stuff, we were going to do his car but i picked up the wrong harness, apparantly not all 08 sonatas are created equal....

so here is the modification i had to do to make it fit:

the one on the top was kinda overkill, the bottom one is perfect, it lines right up with the floor i have in the trunk, and the bracket on the seat

i couldve sworn i took a pic or two to show the trunk with the box and amps and shit in it, but i guess i didnt, all i have are these showing what it looks like from the inside:

overall, i had kinda high expectations, and basically got what i was thinking an 8 with 200 watts would do, not what i thought a t-line would be

it does play and peak astonishingly low, but the highs really roll off like 50-60hz, although it does drop to like 29 with no problem at all. its not very loud, but that may just be my 600 watts of highs drowning it out and the fact that im used to 2 12's with 1200 wrms

i may just build a standard ported box and see how that works, and put it in the same position if i like it more, i'd appreciate a bit more punchyness, but its fine for now, its a temp box anyway=)