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Amp For Mids/highs Really Needed?


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Well, i just finally got my car back after i got in an accident (2 weeks after buying the car..>_<) and yeah, time to fix the shitty speakers...there was a system in it i guess before but the dealership i bought it from, or some1, ripped it all out and yeah. my left front and rears dont work, and my right front is crackly as all shit and there are 2 tweets up front in the pods but they dont work either so yeah....is it really necessary to have amps for your highs/mids (i mean i know it helps but..) still possible to get nice clean loud sound without? (got a shitty budget!)

Edit: Typo!

Edited by Clocksta
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is it really necessary to have amps for your highs/mids (i mean i know it helps but..) still possible to get nice clean loud sound without? (got a shitty budget!)

yes you need an amp

no its not possible to get loud clean highs of a deck

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I got stock door speakers, and tweeters in my 4 Runner with no amp, and it sounds really good for stock until u get it above a volume level of 22, which 22 is pretty loud on my radio, but i guess it depends on ur opinion of a nice clean sound

1997 4 Runner

Alpine CDA-9886

4 Fi Audio X Series 12's

1 Crunch GP3000D Pro

DC Power Inc. Alternator(Kickin out 15+ volts!)

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I would say depends on your sub stage.... if you have like 2000 watts going to your subs.... I would hope you had an amp for your mids/highs.

But if you aren't really running a lot of power to your sub stage then no you don't really need an amp.

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB

Sub Amp:American Bass VFL 500.1

Subs: 4 Fi BL 18's

Enclosure:21.5 Cubic foot flat wall tuned to 40 hz

Batteries: 3 Kinetik 2400's in the back, Kinetik 1200 under hood.

Mids & Highs: 4 Kicker DS 6.5 coax in doors, 2 Kicker DS coax in pillars

Highs Amp: Kicker kx250.2, kx100.2

Wire: 4 Runs 1/0 gauge Knukonceptz

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ooo well yeah, idk, i mean, i'm going for 2 Type-Rs in my trunk on ~600 or 700 watts a piece and i really need new mids as it is, but dont want to go and get somewhat cheap mids that sound pretty good but then when i put some subs in, they dont compare to the subs power and all i hear is bass so

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say you have a deck that is 50x4 usually rated in some low RMS like 18-22wrms, and then you get a 50x4 aftermarket amp, even a cheapy, they are usually rated at 50x4 rms the power is rated differently from a deck to a real amp

and when you actually hook up aftermarket amp, you will notice alot of hidden detail some of the best decks out there cant reveil

and ofcourse louder with less distortion

definitly recommended if you like your music clean, warm, and loud

no stock system I have ever heard matches to aftermarket

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I have a ritual called "terminator". I crouch in the shower in the "naked terminator" pose. With eyes closed I crouch for a minute and visualize either Arnie or the guy from the 2nd movie. I then start to hum the T2 theme. Slowly I rise to a standing position and open my eyes. It helps me get through my day. The only problem is if the shower curtain sticks to my terminator leg. It sorta ruins the fantasy.
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you can find some ok deals on speakers at crutchfield, speaker wire is cheap ..... amps like maybe 100-200 bucks you can get a real decend M&H 50x4

i would install it yourself .. just pull the door panel off (you can google to see how usuually tutorials are somewhere for ur car) and put the speaker in!

run some wire and you're done

~Matthew

1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L

(1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm

with Shock and Proximity

(1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio)

(1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator

(1) Big 3 Done In 1/0

(2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell

(1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver

(1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device

(4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers

(1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface

(4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers

(1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck)

(4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils

(1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz

(1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier

(1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -)

(1) Stinger Volt Meter

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