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When Calculating Voltage For Gain... What Ohm To Use?


Got_Bass89

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Ok so i know the formula and stuff but subwoofers are never right on the dot... I got 4 cvrs ran in series suppose to be @ 1ohm load but its actually a 1.4ohm load... Do i use the actually 1.4ohm in formula or still just use 1ohm which is what its suppose to be at...???? Thanks

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the .4 ohms is most likely the resistance of your multimeter. if you touch the probes together it will probably show .4 ohms.

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? wtf....

u are never suppose to touch the probes...

how are the subs actually wired...

ur suppose to touch the probes together to test the leads for resisitance.. like my OTC DMM my leads have a resistance value of .24 ohms and thats with aligator clips .. anythng over .5 ohms and ur suppose to replace the test leads.... they do break down over time from flexing bud... its like a self check Edited by jonnylowkon

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ur suppose to touch the probes together to test the leads for resisitance.. like my OTC DMM my leads have a resistance value of .24 ohms and thats with aligator clips .. anythng over .5 ohms and ur suppose to replace the test leads.... they do break down over time from flexing bud... its like a self check

Exactly. Also you touch the leads before you measure diodes to make sure the meter is working properly.

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Exactly. Also you touch the leads before you measure diodes to make sure the meter is working properly.

good add i forgot to say that lol.... and every sub is different im using 2 dual 4 ohm subs in a parrallel and i get a 1.21 ohm load at the amp after my subtraction of my leads resistance

Edited by jonnylowkon

250 amp mechman alt

Sundown 100.4D

Sundown 1500v2 now goin to the cruze

Sundown ZV3 12d2

Sundown sa6.5cs X2

Kenwood X597

Trying something new

2011 Chevy Cruze

X8

1500v2

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Your subs are never perfect on the ohms.. You'll see a 2ohm sub at 1.8 or whatever.. 4ohm sub at 3.6ohm and so on... My subs are all dvc 2ohm subs wired to 4ohms each and wired in a series for a 1ohm final load but it actually reads 1.4.. So I should just calculate it with what its suppose to be 1ohm?

Passport Build Here

Alarm: Prestige APS997A 2-Way/Remote Start

HeadUnit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB

Front Battery: Yellowtop Optima D34/78

Back Battery: 2x C&D Technologies High Rate Series UPS12-475FR 134AH

Subs: 2x DC Lv4XL 18's

Amps: 2x Sundown Saz1500's Strapped

Box: 12Cubes 33hz 185sqin Port(15.4sqin per cube)

Pillars: AudioBahn AS31Q

Front Doors: Clif Designs TX40.5

Back Doors: Clif Designs CD50.4C

Rear Speakers: Clif Designs TX46.5

Front/Rear Amp: Kicker ZX350.4

Back/Pillars Amp: Kicker ZX200.2(Looking for another zx350.4)

Electrical: 1/0 Scorpion Wire 2 Runs Pos and 2Runs Ground, Knu 1/0 Flex Running to Amps ect, Big 3, JL 8Ga For Speaker Wire, Knu Karma RCA's, Scorpion Volt Meter

Deadener: 100 sqft Sound Destroyer Mat And SECOND SKIN Damplifier Pro Door Pack

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You did a series-parallel config for 1ohm nominal good ok, if your actual is 1.4 set the voltage based on that, I would. It may only be between a volt or two differance though so its up to you. Was the reading taken with coils cold or after running em? I would set the voltage in relation to the coils resistance when hot, that way you know your getting that power as long as your voltage sustains

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