dwright27 Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 but whoever said that about the sub unloading with too much power in to big of a box was right. im actually thinking of downsizing to 4.5 - 5 cubes and keeping my tuning of 28 hz. im gonna start building my wall again hopefully next weekend being as i got a lil bit of money rolling through thats extra every week even if i cant eat lunch because of it. 2006 F-150 4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver XS Power 4 DC 3.5kw Team DC Team S.P.L. Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0 DC Audio Dealer American Bass Dealer XS Power Dealer Audio Technix Dealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boon Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 well it has to be less than 11.8 volts on one battery and a stock alt..... i got down that far and it was fine ... so where is this 8000 watt 2 15's build at?? im beginning to think ur just some kid jackin off to some woofer porn and dreamin of gettin a job to even support any sort of a decent build... Let's see... Here's my 2 Schneider SPA-7000X's - Also known as American Bass VFL400.1, thats a good 8kwrms. Batteries and 0 gauge wire Battery up front with the wire... Temporary SPL box for one of the DD 9515's, waiting on parts to rebuild the other. So, yeah, eat a dick Sorry for the off topic... 10.x volts fo' life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwright27 Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 now for more updates! I just got off the phone with wes while I was having fun messing with the kiddies (no homo) and we worked out an agreement, he has some extra resin, and has agreed that if I help him strip his car tommarow for his 09 build (he has 8 JL 12w1v2s on a single PA3000DB, holy fucking shit its loud, 150.7@38, not to mention its a wall, dunno what its tuned to) that he'll build me boxes for inside the wall for my Pyles and Tang band speakers, and he'll help me get the new tang band 4s in the dash. Meaning im probably gonna be pretty busy tommarow! i would keep just the tang bands. i love those speakers. 2006 F-150 4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver XS Power 4 DC 3.5kw Team DC Team S.P.L. Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0 DC Audio Dealer American Bass Dealer XS Power Dealer Audio Technix Dealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwright27 Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 Let's see... Here's my 2 Schneider SPA-7000X's - Also known as American Bass VFL400.1, thats a good 8kwrms. Batteries and 0 gauge wire Battery up front with the wire... Temporary SPL box for one of the DD 9515's, waiting on parts to rebuild the other. So, yeah, eat a dick Sorry for the off topic... they make yellow corollas?? 2006 F-150 4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver XS Power 4 DC 3.5kw Team DC Team S.P.L. Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0 DC Audio Dealer American Bass Dealer XS Power Dealer Audio Technix Dealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnylowkon Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 I guess you didnt know im 15 then, I dont have money to buy something like a T4K, and now that I look at it, this thing has a rating of 160, 4x30 equaling 120, with an internal "hot" fuse of 40, meaning its 160 total, a thermal fuse works like a circuit breaker in your house, it can turn off and on, if the overload is too much, it is bypassed and it blows the 30s, basically saying, since my electronics system is going to be 14.4, this equals 2710w with the efficiency of this amp being 85, if you dont believe me, research the chips used in the amp, in other words, its stable at 2200W @ 1ohm, so please all you haters, suck it.wow... ok i had no idea...im knowledged outta this thread...lol 250 amp mechman alt Sundown 100.4D Sundown 1500v2 now goin to the cruze Sundown ZV3 12d2 Sundown sa6.5cs X2 Kenwood X597 Trying something new 2011 Chevy Cruze X8 1500v2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwright27 Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 Blech... Have you got the MT yet? If not, you won't have noticed that it has several EXTREMELY stiff spiders. You seem to know plenty about speakers so you'll probably know that this is to help control the cone at very high power levels. It has a high sensitivity rating primarily because it's an 18 inch sub. I suspect that they extrapolate the sensitivity from what the sub does with a few thousand watts because I just don't see it doing what they claim at 1w. Similar to any high power-handling SPL woofer - the sensitivity is often rated at 90+dB @ 1w but I suspect it's extrapolated because when you can't move the cone pushing down on it with 2 hands you're sure as hell not going to move it much with 1wrms. The reason 'low power' is going to kill your woofer is because the power you currently have means it will not really get up and boogy like it should (due to the actually relatively low sensitivity) Now if you use a rediculously large box and enormous port (so the sub is just about free air) then you may get enough cone movement to properly cool the coil. If you look at the MT motor you'll spot 2 things about it - 1. no pole piece vent (as I have mentioned about 1000 times) 2. extremely narrow gap Then we look at the coil itself. It's basically just a big complex mess of copper clad aluminium - much like the heatsink in your computer in many ways. With your computer's heatsink, you'll notice it has a big fan on top. That's because forced convection cooling is much more effective than plain old convection (transfer of heat to air) With the fan on your heatsink you should be able to run that CPU for hours on end at 100% load and it'll be fine because there's enough airflow to dissipate the heat. Now imagine if you took your heatsink and put it inside a very very small metal box (kinda like the inside of a subwoofer motor...) without the fan on top. If you kept the load on the computer very very very small it may just manage to keep on ticking because the heat would be able to dissipate fast enough on it's own but as soon as you put a small load on that CPU it would overheat and the computer would crash or reboot from it's own thermal protection. Let's transfer this to a subwoofer, if you haven't seen where I'm going yet. When you have low(ish) power to it, the coil is hardly moving in the gap so there's very very little airflow around it. Basically you're slowly just warming up the same little bit of air. Once the ambient temperature gets high enough (Newton's law of cooling) there will be virtually no cooling and then it's only a matter of time until the magic smoke comes out. Subs like the DD9515 or DC Level 5 aren't so prone to it because they have bigger gaps and pole vents. This does result in a slightly less efficient motor but they compensate for it by using a very large motor. When you wall socket an MT, the sub is basically running xmax-to-xmax so there's an enormous amount of air flowing around the very large voice coil which makes for very effective cooling. Which is why they can last for ages. As long as you're banging the crap out of them you're fine.... for all the reasons above. It's when you CAN'T get the cone moving, due to lack of power, that you're endangering the sub. Long story short, you're going to have to build a simply colossal box to try and get the cone moving enough. At least you're only running 1 18 in a wall so this is fairly feasible. The problem with that is when later on you get a proper amp for it, the box is way too big for the new setup, the sub unloads all the time and your cone comes away from the former my spiders are extremely stiff and it moves great with 500 RMS 2006 F-150 4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver XS Power 4 DC 3.5kw Team DC Team S.P.L. Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0 DC Audio Dealer American Bass Dealer XS Power Dealer Audio Technix Dealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boon Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 they make yellow corollas?? Hell yeah man In the SPL scene around here it's known as the Yellow M&M or the Banana Boat. The colour is Dulux Mega Yellow 10.x volts fo' life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnylowkon Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 Let's see... Here's my 2 Schneider SPA-7000X's - Also known as American Bass VFL400.1, thats a good 8kwrms. Batteries and 0 gauge wire Battery up front with the wire... Temporary SPL box for one of the DD 9515's, waiting on parts to rebuild the other. So, yeah, eat a dick Sorry for the off topic... looks like junk besides the AB's... anyways good day u bore me with ur so so build... 250 amp mechman alt Sundown 100.4D Sundown 1500v2 now goin to the cruze Sundown ZV3 12d2 Sundown sa6.5cs X2 Kenwood X597 Trying something new 2011 Chevy Cruze X8 1500v2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Applejack Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 so who's gonna pull their cock out next? Midwest Car Audio is on facebook! http://www.facebook.com/pages/Midwest-Car-Audio-Association/101253286585630 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwright27 Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 Hell yeah man In the SPL scene around here it's known as the Yellow M&M or the Banana Boat. The colour is Dulux Mega Yellow ive never seen one. what year is it? 2006 F-150 4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver XS Power 4 DC 3.5kw Team DC Team S.P.L. Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0 DC Audio Dealer American Bass Dealer XS Power Dealer Audio Technix Dealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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