Jump to content
Second Skin Audio

Needing New Box And Subs


Recommended Posts

right now im running 2 memphis pr 12's pushing about 350 rms to each in just a sealed 1.5 cu foot box for each speaker. I am looking to design a new ported box, and looking to also get new subwoofers.

I have enough room to put as big as a 10 cubic ft box if i need,

i have the stock electrical system in my explorer, and relatively new to this stuff

which way should i point the port? what should i tune the box for? i listen to almost all rap.

I was looking at the Hifonics brutus B12D4 subs.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12409_...nics+B12D4.html

anybody know if they are any good?

or any other ideas for different subwoofers around the same price range?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok im tired of my voltage on my system dropping to 11.6 volts on my car full tilt. i currently have a Kicker zx2500.1 on a Fi BTL 15" and 2 optimas yellow tops. i have the big 3 done and on a cold day at start up im at 14.6 volt and on a hot day im at 14.0 volts. i have enough for either a mechan H.O. Alt or a XS power master D3100. but i dont know what to get. but i do know im leaning toward the new ALT. whats your opinion?

---------------------------------------------------------------

Club 150 (15x.x)

Youtube

Future Build:

1x 15" T3 TSNS

2x Sundown Audio SAZ3000d Parellel strapped

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok im tired of my voltage on my system dropping to 11.6 volts on my car full tilt. i currently have a Kicker zx2500.1 on a Fi BTL 15" and 2 optimas yellow tops. i have the big 3 done and on a cold day at start up im at 14.6 volt and on a hot day im at 14.0 volts. i have enough for either a mechan H.O. Alt or a XS power master D3100. but i dont know what to get. but i do know im leaning toward the new ALT. whats your opinion?

---------------------------------------------------------------

Club 150 (15x.x)

Youtube

Future Build:

1x 15" T3 TSNS

2x Sundown Audio SAZ3000d Parellel strapped

Link to comment
Share on other sites

go with the new alternator!!!

That's why they don't deliver.

Yer ass better go sit along the side of the road and wait.

You can't expect them to travel up some dirt road in a hick / back woods town. Thats how horror movies start :D

I explain things very simply and use analogies in terms of Pickles, and grape drink, pool noodles and jackhammers...if you can't put 2 and 2 together there man, There simply is not much more I can do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

with that altenator you should be seeing maybe 13.6 with full tilt and later on get better batteries and the missing link module which should get you at 14.6-14.4 volts when doing full tilt.

That's why they don't deliver.

Yer ass better go sit along the side of the road and wait.

You can't expect them to travel up some dirt road in a hick / back woods town. Thats how horror movies start :D

I explain things very simply and use analogies in terms of Pickles, and grape drink, pool noodles and jackhammers...if you can't put 2 and 2 together there man, There simply is not much more I can do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Just_Rob
ok im tired of my voltage on my system dropping to 11.6 volts on my car full tilt. i currently have a Kicker zx2500.1 on a Fi BTL 15" and 2 optimas yellow tops. i have the big 3 done and on a cold day at start up im at 14.6 volt and on a hot day im at 14.0 volts. i have enough for either a mechan H.O. Alt or a XS power master D3100. but i dont know what to get. but i do know im leaning toward the new ALT. whats your opinion?

What kind of Car is it? Is it dropping to 11.6 just at idle, or is it doing it at cruising speeds as well?? Either an alternator or a D3100 is going to help a lot and I would take one D3100 over the 2 yellow tops in a heartbeat, if you can do an alternator and a battery, then do both but I would ditch the yellow tops for the D3100 first. The biggest gain you'll have with the D3100 is just the raw reserve capactiy and the ability to rapidly discharge and recharge. Voltage on an alternator is all relative to heat and temerature compensation in the voltage regulator, the hotter they get the more they back off. MLA modules will help fix that problem if your not way over the alternators output capability IF you have the battery reserve capacity.

The biggest thing to remember, is that electricity is electricity and when your voltage goes down, amperage has to go up (dang ohms law, cant get around it) and ANY additional VOLTAGE you can get reduces the amount of AMPERAGE necessary, and in our line of work where more amperage=more heat which is bad, so when you step the voltage up, the amperage required has to go down and that is a GOOD Thing...

If there is anything else I can help with, let me know.... Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 921 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...