wasted ink Posted November 12, 2008 Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 the person i purchased the sub from failed to tell me about a stripped out set screw for one of the terminals. wouldnt have known until i went to install it, but i found a thread started by him a long time ago on another forum.. asking how to get a stripped set screw out, just like i am now. its an allen head bolt. ive tried going a size up, doesnt fit. ive tried flat head screw drivers, nothing. i dont want to spray anything on it to free it up either. any ideas? could i drill it out? ive heard i can get a new set for $15 or so from RE.. but id like that to be the last resort... if i can get it out, i can at least replace just the screw itself. thanks in advance. Quote Wasted, Incorporated Up Front: Optima Yellowtop HU:Pioneer Avic N1 w/ 2007 upgrade Front Stage: MB Quart 6.5 comps Rear Fill: Infinity Reference Sub Stage: RE MT 18 Sub Amp: Undecided Sub Enclosure: 5.5 cubes tuned to 33hz Absolute Terminals SkyTec 5100RS 2-Way LCD Pager KnuKonceptz Wire My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepSpl Posted November 12, 2008 Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 the person i purchased the sub from failed to tell me about a stripped out set screw for one of the terminals. wouldnt have known until i went to install it, but i found a thread started by him a long time ago on another forum.. asking how to get a stripped set screw out, just like i am now.its an allen head bolt. ive tried going a size up, doesnt fit. ive tried flat head screw drivers, nothing. i dont want to spray anything on it to free it up either. any ideas? could i drill it out? ive heard i can get a new set for $15 or so from RE.. but id like that to be the last resort... if i can get it out, i can at least replace just the screw itself. thanks in advance. Easy outs FTW! usually works in most cases small pilot hole then use the easyout Something like this set should work http://www.amazon.com/Easy-Out-Screw-Extra...t/dp/B0002SDAIY Quote 1 15" Nighthade Sundown 1500D 3.4cubes @ 34 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasted ink Posted November 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 yea i thought about easy outs, ill try to get my hands on a set. i wont be installing for a while anyways. all other ideas are welcome. thanks guys. Quote Wasted, Incorporated Up Front: Optima Yellowtop HU:Pioneer Avic N1 w/ 2007 upgrade Front Stage: MB Quart 6.5 comps Rear Fill: Infinity Reference Sub Stage: RE MT 18 Sub Amp: Undecided Sub Enclosure: 5.5 cubes tuned to 33hz Absolute Terminals SkyTec 5100RS 2-Way LCD Pager KnuKonceptz Wire My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted November 12, 2008 Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 yea i thought about easy outs, ill try to get my hands on a set. i wont be installing for a while anyways. all other ideas are welcome. thanks guys. Get a punch and a hammer and gently tap the punch on a flat top part of the set screw to make an indention then angle the punch while still in little hole and tap it around and around until it comes out. Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasted ink Posted November 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 id do that, but the set screws are just a hole for an allen wrench - theres really no top to them. ill try and get a point on the inside of it tomorrow though, that may work. thanks for the input man Quote Wasted, Incorporated Up Front: Optima Yellowtop HU:Pioneer Avic N1 w/ 2007 upgrade Front Stage: MB Quart 6.5 comps Rear Fill: Infinity Reference Sub Stage: RE MT 18 Sub Amp: Undecided Sub Enclosure: 5.5 cubes tuned to 33hz Absolute Terminals SkyTec 5100RS 2-Way LCD Pager KnuKonceptz Wire My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duct_tape123 Posted November 12, 2008 Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 Definitely use an easy out. Can be had at Autozone for ~$4 for one. Just tap the end of the easy out in the allen head and twist to remove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasted ink Posted November 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 (edited) yea, thats probably the route ill end up taking. thanks bud Edited November 12, 2008 by wasted ink Quote Wasted, Incorporated Up Front: Optima Yellowtop HU:Pioneer Avic N1 w/ 2007 upgrade Front Stage: MB Quart 6.5 comps Rear Fill: Infinity Reference Sub Stage: RE MT 18 Sub Amp: Undecided Sub Enclosure: 5.5 cubes tuned to 33hz Absolute Terminals SkyTec 5100RS 2-Way LCD Pager KnuKonceptz Wire My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgethis39 Posted November 12, 2008 Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 I have had a lot of luck drill the hole for the easy out and when your almost trough lean the drill slightly on reverse and sometimes it will grab and back the screw allthe way out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raytard Posted November 12, 2008 Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 ive had easyouts snap on me into the set hole and then you're double fucked cuz those easy outs are really hard (but apparantly brittle) material. just a word of warning, spend the extra few bux and get a good set Quote Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now) Team DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasted ink Posted November 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 yea, will do. ive used easy outs before, just not on such a small fastener. the reason they are hard but brittle is because theyre usually made of high carbon steel.. resulting in an extremely hard piece yet brittle like cast iron Quote Wasted, Incorporated Up Front: Optima Yellowtop HU:Pioneer Avic N1 w/ 2007 upgrade Front Stage: MB Quart 6.5 comps Rear Fill: Infinity Reference Sub Stage: RE MT 18 Sub Amp: Undecided Sub Enclosure: 5.5 cubes tuned to 33hz Absolute Terminals SkyTec 5100RS 2-Way LCD Pager KnuKonceptz Wire My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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